Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

What's happening to your other R32 GTR?

Are you going to donate the engine from that being an ex Willal setup into this project?

Looking great. Can't wait to catchup again in the new year.

Mick

Mick, I dont have any plan for the black R32 at this stage but it will likely be return to stock and for sale. At the moment I don't have time or resource to build too many race cars. I still have the honda s2000 to finish off as well.

Tackling one thing at a time at this stage.

How is your N1 BNR32 going mate?

  • 3 months later...

It has been slow....but is still making steady progress

IMG-20110509-00137.jpg

I can't wait until the whole car is resprayed.

Hopefully I will then have some time to do the mechanical work coz that should not take too long to reinstall.

  • 3 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

krayzie32, it's still in progress!

I bought a set of front fenders from a sponsor on here and it did not fit properly. The carbon doors did not fit perfectly as well. The car has been at a panel shop. These are finally fitted. The side skirt is being custom fitted at the moment. Then I like to get the rear bars for the roll cage redone to strengthen and tie in the rear struts with the rest of the cage. A custom wing mount is also needed.

Then it's off to the sand blaster and spray painter.

The rest of the mechanical work is easy and I can pull my fingers out to help with the spanner work;) Hopefully I can start testing it early next year ;)

  • 5 months later...

Just a brief update :yes:

I was not too impressed with the cage after the last fabrication and did not have any luck to rebook the car to redo some of the work. I looked around and found another place. I had most of the additional bars to the existing cage removed and had them redone + added a few more :whistling: . Fingers crossed the car should be ready to send to the painter mid this week.

IMG-20120321-01191.jpg

I will post some more details when time permits

0-200kmph in 2.6 lol, this car ran a 8.84 1/4 and the time slip of the gtr that ran 9.2 took over 6sec to get to 195kmph and is only .4 of a sec slower down the quarter.

So if your car can do 0-200 in 2.6 seconds, then it should be capable of low sixes? you do the maths.......

LOL old joke mate .... as I said chinese whisper (rumour) ..... and it doesn't matter because I have been testing the engine with a pair of Greddy T618Z turbo instead of the old T67....it will do 0-2000kph in many light years. Like it or lose it is up to you. This thread was made for some nice memoirs of the old girl and it's being made to go faster (hopefully) around the bend :cheers:

Would like to see more pics of htis build.

0-200kmph in 2.6 lol, this car ran a 8.84 1/4 and the time slip of the gtr that ran 9.2 took over 6sec to get to 195kmph and is only .4 of a sec slower down the quarter.

So if your car can do 0-200 in 2.6 seconds, then it should be capable of low sixes? you do the maths.......

Shut up, dickwad. No one cares.

  • 3 weeks later...

Awesome Mike. I am back from my oversea conference as well. Will get the whip out and get this car done in the next few months. Would love to have your inputs regarding the suspension ;) Thanks mate

  • 2 months later...

I am sorry that I have not had much time to post the progresses. I have been so frantically organising and installing things to get this car ready for WTAC. I am not sure if it will meet the deadline because of a couple of hiccups and my busy work schedule. Here are a couple of camera phones to keep everyone posted. Will do proper summary later on

Engine bay with the undercoat. Kim did a really good job...keep telling him it's not a show car lol I ams sure he added tons of bogs

rh8-1.jpg

Then Peter finished it off with gun metal colour in engine bay and boot...really good quality painting

20120623_122116.jpg

IMG-20120528-00044.jpg

20120623_122116.jpg

I installed engine and gearbox at a mate's workshop with help from a couple more mates

IMG-20120602-00059.jpg

IMG-20101218-00044.jpg

They then snapped a picture of me with the new engine bay lol

IMG-20120603-00072.jpg

Some more fabrication work, which has costed a bomb. I should have learn how to tig weld before this project

20120621_221127.jpg

20120621_221155.jpg

Off to a full time panel beater and painter because my other mates have full time jobs and can only help after hours.

Aero and fitment touches on the front fenders

20120627_135013.jpg

Still a bit more to do but getting there

20120627_134757.jpg

I will post some more pics when the project is finished. Hopefully it will make it to Superlap. I don't think we will have any testing time. I am not expecting any crazy fast time because I will be driving it....which is something that I have not done for at least 3 years :( It will be a good track for shakedown :) Trying my best to make it happen.

Edited by 9krpm

i heard rumors the appocalipse was coming...... ;) . u just had to make my life harder.. as if andrew bartlett wasnt quick enough, i see this thing ...... looking very very impressive

Jenkies, I heard your is a real beast as well mate.

Mike, get your 33 going mate....that will be an epic as well.

Andrew, it will be good to get some lap time again. It's been a long time. I got to steal some secret or your race line soon mate ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...