Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

To much localised load being put on that lower pin. It will break the alloy casting.

You need to utilise the original holes and use the original counter bore to locate the component.

I tried that method years ago and broke every upright I did it to

Free advise. Do with it as you wish.

The upper and lower pivots need to be double sheer. The way I do the lowers is to machine an inverted _|_|_ shaped adaptor with a spherical ledge that locates into the original ball joint counter bore.

The edges are drilled to suit the old bolt holes and they are machine with a gusset on the front & back edges the radius' of the corners is very important to strength. I use a 1/2inch aurora rod end mounted vertically with a through bolt and have the lower control arm coming from there.

Do the exact same thing for the inner using the original 4 captive nuts.

For the upper outter I do the following

A similar |_| shaped adaptor with a pin machined from the billet that matches the taper of the upright.

Again it's double sheer and the rod end is mounted vertically with a through bolt.

For the upper inners a [ bracket can be machined and attached to the chassis however you intend to do it (this is the big time and R&D part of my setups that I won't give out)

Again double sheer and a through bolt.

Your method mounts the rod ends horizontally which limits travel and single sheer which loads the pins. The upright is also not strong enough to take the load the pin puts on it when you lower the control arm increasing the leverage ratio.

The upper would be okay the way you've done it but a horizontal rod end is frowned upon.

I'd recommend whoever is doing this have a read of Carroll smiths book "engineered to win"

It's old but Carroll was a legend of race chassis design, everything he ever wrote still rings true today

Much appreciate for the info Brad.

The component used in this conversion is over engineered rather than under. Suspension arms are bigger than usual, 3/4 spherical not 1/2", bearing carrier etc etc. We have opted to go for spherical bearings over rod ends as the guys are not a fan of rod ends in bending, common but weak point in design. For time and cost saving, I've decided to use the oem upright which has very strong bearings. We even had an engineer to look at the bearing and had the a ok with him.

The R35 use the same bearing. So I am confident with this.

Riverside is a very reputable sport sedan and V8 Supercar builder so I have trust in them. The car is welded to a jig, suspension arms placement are carefully calculated from Suspension 3D software for optimal geometry and are built to last. I've not tried to skim on weight here.

It's almost done. I have to give respect to Riverside and not post too much of their R&D up here. You know Liam, send him a message, he's happy to chat with you.

I'm very surprised Liam is doing a single sheer pin like that

He is very familiar with supercar front end design and I'd thought he'd go that little further and do it properly.

The upright and bearing is fine

It WILL break the alloy casting with the lower pin done that way. I've done it several times.

Save yourself the hassle of putting the car into a wall and get him to double sheer it.

I am sorry I have been away for a conference.

It sounds like the OEM upright has an inhertent weakness there. Do you have any pictures of where your previous upright broke Brad?

Anyway I talked to Liam and he said he was planning to double sheered it anyway. They are trying to also design something stronger given your information. Please load up some picture of the previous broken upright Brad.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

For those that are wondering where we are up to with less than 3 months to go;

20130725_225508.jpg

Brainstorming is completed and my final design/ideas have been sent to the Advanced Composites. A few more kilo of carbon and the car battle armour will be ready for testing ^_^ We should be ready for WTAC in October.

This will be one angry GTR when done. I am finally happy with the final design. Watch this space ;)

In the mean time, gotta work harder to pay for this hobby/carbon lol

Edited by 9krpm
  • Like 1
  • 5 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I have a little guessing game going on with the link below if anyone keen for a free track ride in this thing

https://www.facebook.com/WorldTimeAttack/posts/676475822364927?notif_t=story_reshare

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=621906527829788&set=a.621930421160732&type=1&theater&notif_t=like

Will try to update this thread but probably be after WTAC....under the pump atm.

Edited by 9krpm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
    • Unsolicited advice? Keep the engine as close to stock as you can. Nothing wrong with adding some boost and making a little more power, but given where you are, you really don't want to try to make it into a monster. I can't imagine the roads are up to it, and the lack of locla support when it grenades will be a ball ache. FWIW, If there is a dyno around that you can access, then brand new injectors are a good idea, which will lead you to (at least) putting a Nistune in it, which will allow you to put an R35 AFM on it, all of which will make it possible to make it much much nicer to drive and live with.
×
×
  • Create New...