Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

To much localised load being put on that lower pin. It will break the alloy casting.

You need to utilise the original holes and use the original counter bore to locate the component.

I tried that method years ago and broke every upright I did it to

Free advise. Do with it as you wish.

The upper and lower pivots need to be double sheer. The way I do the lowers is to machine an inverted _|_|_ shaped adaptor with a spherical ledge that locates into the original ball joint counter bore.

The edges are drilled to suit the old bolt holes and they are machine with a gusset on the front & back edges the radius' of the corners is very important to strength. I use a 1/2inch aurora rod end mounted vertically with a through bolt and have the lower control arm coming from there.

Do the exact same thing for the inner using the original 4 captive nuts.

For the upper outter I do the following

A similar |_| shaped adaptor with a pin machined from the billet that matches the taper of the upright.

Again it's double sheer and the rod end is mounted vertically with a through bolt.

For the upper inners a [ bracket can be machined and attached to the chassis however you intend to do it (this is the big time and R&D part of my setups that I won't give out)

Again double sheer and a through bolt.

Your method mounts the rod ends horizontally which limits travel and single sheer which loads the pins. The upright is also not strong enough to take the load the pin puts on it when you lower the control arm increasing the leverage ratio.

The upper would be okay the way you've done it but a horizontal rod end is frowned upon.

I'd recommend whoever is doing this have a read of Carroll smiths book "engineered to win"

It's old but Carroll was a legend of race chassis design, everything he ever wrote still rings true today

Much appreciate for the info Brad.

The component used in this conversion is over engineered rather than under. Suspension arms are bigger than usual, 3/4 spherical not 1/2", bearing carrier etc etc. We have opted to go for spherical bearings over rod ends as the guys are not a fan of rod ends in bending, common but weak point in design. For time and cost saving, I've decided to use the oem upright which has very strong bearings. We even had an engineer to look at the bearing and had the a ok with him.

The R35 use the same bearing. So I am confident with this.

Riverside is a very reputable sport sedan and V8 Supercar builder so I have trust in them. The car is welded to a jig, suspension arms placement are carefully calculated from Suspension 3D software for optimal geometry and are built to last. I've not tried to skim on weight here.

It's almost done. I have to give respect to Riverside and not post too much of their R&D up here. You know Liam, send him a message, he's happy to chat with you.

I'm very surprised Liam is doing a single sheer pin like that

He is very familiar with supercar front end design and I'd thought he'd go that little further and do it properly.

The upright and bearing is fine

It WILL break the alloy casting with the lower pin done that way. I've done it several times.

Save yourself the hassle of putting the car into a wall and get him to double sheer it.

I am sorry I have been away for a conference.

It sounds like the OEM upright has an inhertent weakness there. Do you have any pictures of where your previous upright broke Brad?

Anyway I talked to Liam and he said he was planning to double sheered it anyway. They are trying to also design something stronger given your information. Please load up some picture of the previous broken upright Brad.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

For those that are wondering where we are up to with less than 3 months to go;

20130725_225508.jpg

Brainstorming is completed and my final design/ideas have been sent to the Advanced Composites. A few more kilo of carbon and the car battle armour will be ready for testing ^_^ We should be ready for WTAC in October.

This will be one angry GTR when done. I am finally happy with the final design. Watch this space ;)

In the mean time, gotta work harder to pay for this hobby/carbon lol

Edited by 9krpm
  • Like 1
  • 5 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I have a little guessing game going on with the link below if anyone keen for a free track ride in this thing

https://www.facebook.com/WorldTimeAttack/posts/676475822364927?notif_t=story_reshare

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=621906527829788&set=a.621930421160732&type=1&theater&notif_t=like

Will try to update this thread but probably be after WTAC....under the pump atm.

Edited by 9krpm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hope it's actually possible. This is a write off in insurance world.
    • Yup. 2-way with shallow ramp angles. Still works.
    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
×
×
  • Create New...