Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know of an r31 in japan that can cut an 11

and yes 12's are very doable in an r32 rb 20.

ben gtr came pretty close with his gts4.

there is an r32 gtst with an rb26 i qld that runs a low 11's

the bigest thing holding people with rb/20's back is you need to take the big step to run 12's injecotrs big turbo and metal head gasket. the are some strong rb20's around jsut because you dont hear of them doesn't mean they dont exist.

btw there was another from pet in melb that ran a 12.9 or so with a top speed of 120 or so

I expect dr drift here to come close to a 12 if he continues his development program on his car.

meggala

as for me I'm happy with a mid 13 unless someone wants to pay me to run faster

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3465-fast-rb20s/#findComment-58206
Share on other sites

the JMS onveia rb20 powered silvia ran a 12.2 i think, it was running a std motor with big turbo etc, the silvia would weigh about 100kg less as it was stripped out.

Their cerifio rand a 12.9 i think and that has just got a hks 2530 turbo.

The rb20 just needs a good turbo with some good tuning.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3465-fast-rb20s/#findComment-58209
Share on other sites

boostmeister would be the person you should consult with.. I can see you want to build a daily drivable thats capable of 12s on track..

You might want to visit:

http://www.amkread.co.jp/

and check out some of the records... there should be a HNR32 (GTS4) with RB20DET 2.4litre T88 that ran 9.8s... You won't see any RB20DET 2.0litre cars break into low 11s or 10s as in Japan they don't use full slick tyres.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3465-fast-rb20s/#findComment-58297
Share on other sites

Mine should be able to (with some traction). Best so far is high 13's (bear with me here, i'm not kidding, it should do 12's). This was on standard, near bald crappy tyres. I also missed the change to second on this run.

I was going past the 1/8th mile mark with the wheels still spinning in third gear. Got traction in 4th. I did have the highest mph for the Street class. My mph was a consistent 110mph.

I think with some traction, should do a high 12.

I got Trust TD06-20G turbo, Trust intercooler, Trust tuned length exhaust manifold. Trust external wastegate. Extra injector. Upgraded fuel pump. Running up to 1.5 bar boost.

:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3465-fast-rb20s/#findComment-59280
Share on other sites

perhaps learning to drag race will help your time?

Foot to fhe floor is not the best way to get best times?

You dont see top fuel drivers spinning their wheels through gears and they get pretty good times.

Try applying power gradually

Saying that "Yer she was spinning into 4th" may sound like your car is uber powerful etc... but it doesnt help your et's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3465-fast-rb20s/#findComment-59439
Share on other sites

Originally posted by JiMiH

I originally meant in street trim, without slicks

slicks = cheating :rolleyes:

set of bfg drag radial TA's are DOT and therefore not cheating, Niz30 with his mph has a low 11 potential with these sort of tyres and a Whiteline KCA349 diff kit (only $104).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3465-fast-rb20s/#findComment-59716
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Will have a look at that. I cant see any leaks 
    • Put another overflow bottle (ie, a 1.25 coke bottle or similar) under the overflow hose and see if it is being pushed out there or if it is disappearing into the engine.
    • Staring on a stand is no issue. You just have to wire everything up, give it fuel and cross your fingers that the stand is robust enough. Arranging the inlet plumbing is often the hardest part, without any surrounding structure to hand some of it from. No need for coolant if you only want to run it for <1 minute. As to the gearbox - I think the little Aisin box is a bit stronger than the other small Nissan boxes that went behind SRs, but I wouldn't be too keen to test its limits with the torque of a boosted 25. I don't know if you can retain the box and the tailshaft. The box won't connect to the RB without an adapter of some sort, which is either a plate that will push the engine forward (which is not good for fitting it into the bay's available space) or push the box back, which messes with the box position and tailshaft length - OR - cut and shut work on the bellhousing, which is a long way from "least modification". I'd be buying a new 370Z 6 speed or similar, doing what has to be done to that to make it fit RB (ie, cut and shut bellhousing) and the requisite tailshaft custom/mods.
    • Hi Everyone I am from West Pennant Hills in NSW. Been too busy until recently to attend to my RB25DET Series 2 engine until recently. I am planning to stick it into the S15 shell at this stage, unless a nice SR20DET turns up... For now, i am going to try and get the RB25 running and working well then decide what gearbox to use. My preference is to retain the SR20DET  6 speed gearbox and tail shaft to retain as much and least modifications as i can avoid. I am an old guy and won't be doing any heavy drifting so i don't need a bullet proof gearbox Does anyone have experience with starting the RB on a stand? I got everything setup as much as I can with the info i can find... endless searching and videos on Youtube I would be great to get some pointers Cheers Songo
    • Hey all, Recently have had my s1 r33 gtr serviced and noticed my coolant reservoir was topped up to the max line. Took the car out for 1 yesterday and noticed today the reservoir is completely empty.  Any ideas? Radiator is full
×
×
  • Create New...