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Turbine Housing Swap.

StealthX

By StealthX,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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StealthX Veteran

StealthX

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, need some feedback...

I'm about to swap the turbine housing on my disco potato, I need your advice on getting the old one off.

Any tips or tricks regarding undoing the seized up, rusty old bolts? They seem pretty hard to undo without damaging the threads, I'm worried I'm gonna skip a thread or something cos they are pretty stiff.

Heat? anti-seize? WD-40?

Also, how much difference is the .86 likely to yield over the .64? I'm running 10psi (by about 2250rpm on a 2.5L) atm and it makes about 200awkw, I'm not expecting the peak figure to change much, just want to know if the midrange is going to change that much...

Thanks guys!

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StealthX Veteran

StealthX

Posted
  • Author
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Plenty of wd40, leave to saok, and work the bolts back and forward. If you arent expecting to make more power, why are you changing up a housing?

Boost control problem. Narrowed it down to the .64 housing being too small and is choking the motor (ignition timing is very retarded - about 1-2 degrees on full boost). 10psi was creeping up to 15psi+ towards redline so the housing doesn't flow enough gas around the turbine wheel.

So I've bought the .86 housing hoping it'll flow a fair bit more and an external gate set-up (manifold, gate, custom dump and screamer)

I'll give the WD-40 a try, but is it dangerous having a flammable liquid chillin on the housing, then getting it up to heat? i.e. driving around after spraying WD40.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Had the same issue on my 3037, WD was the ticket. Dont worry about heating it up (for both flame on reasons and expecting it to unseize).

Heating it up is likely to heat up the bolts first which will make them tighter in theory.. Which really is the whole issue to begin with (heat and expansion + corrosion causing them to seize).

Can I ask, why not simply move to a .86 IW housing? I dont forsee a major gain moving to EX gate on this setup, especially not a feasible one. Im sure others will agree.

As for results, peak power may change slightly. Torque delivery will be dramatically different and you should be able to wind some more timing into it. I dare say the issue you are having is the static CR.

Could you elaborate on your current manifold setup? Pics? And also of your dump.

Cheers,

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StealthX Veteran

StealthX

Posted
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Turns out they were actually pretty easy... They were tight, but not impossible :) WD definitely helped. I sprayed all the bolts and went for a long drive, then the next morning i sprayed them again and by lunchtime they were being undone. After about 180deg each, they were all finger worthy!

The new .86 housing feels more progressive now, and builds towards the top end rather than falling off. I havn't taken it for a big drive, so havn't seen if it's fixed the boost creep. I adjusted the actuator rod pre-tension for 10psi. I'll give it some shit on the way back from work tonight, and see if it's creeping still...

Scott, I have the .86 IW housing now, but the manifold is the problem, it always has been. When it was made it was made too high. My friend didn't take into account the bonnet clearance very well. It only sit about 20mm from the bonnet which, if i have any chance at getting it all legal, I'm sure will be a problem that an engineer will spot. And yeah, the ignition timing will be adjusted by my tuner, i don't have knock ears or a knock block so I don't wanna even try to adjust it on the street. The static CR is 9.5-9.9:1, I've never been able to get a straight answer from anyone re: x-trail QR25 CR. The QR in the Sentra Spec V is 9.5 then 10.5 on the new version, but I'm not 100% sure on my engine. Wiki says 9.5, redbook says 9.9 and two different Nissan techs told me 9.5 and 9.9...

I'm upgrading the manifold/changing to external wastegate for better boost control, neater engine bay, no more heat problems from the dump on the thermo fans, new 3" dump and plus, I wanna have some fun with a screamer :) (apologies to the fun police).

Current manifold:

DSC01089.jpg

DSC01087.jpg

New manifold:

photo.jpg

photo2.jpg

Before anyone asks, no I don't know the diameter of the primaries on the manifold. either way, it doesn't flow that well, this new one without a doubt flows more.

My dump is a 2.5" stainless bellmouth. I could only do 2.5" due to space restraints. This new manifold will make way for a 3" too, so that's another reason for the upgrade.

P1000855.jpg

That's the best pic I've got though.

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