Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its true for all cars being complianced under the SEVS scheme, all cars imported must be stock and not severly accident damaged. Alot of compliance places will have stock items to fit to it for compliancing then put the modifications back on, but you might also have to destroy the mods and purchase stock parts to go on it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34670-confused/#findComment-693323
Share on other sites

All cars under the new scheme will have to be returned completely back to stock, apart from bodykit and maybe wheels. The removed items must be destroyed or exported out of australia. So it probably will not be worth buying a modified car from japan.

Importing cars has to be done through a RAWS workshop or registered auto workshop scheme workshop. THis means you give them the money and they buy the car for you in japan, then compliance it.

Please correct me if im wrong.

THis of course excludes private imports (cars owned and used by you overseas for more than 12 months) and 15+ year old cars (but this will probably change soon.)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34670-confused/#findComment-693507
Share on other sites

All cars imported under the new SEVS scheme must be unmodified, or for the occas out there "stock as a rock".

this means no aftermarket rims and body kit, steering wheel and gearknob, etc.

15 yo cars are ok at the moment but, changes are proposed and will be enforced soon.

This change has been a painful process and has been introduced to cut the 'cowboys' out of the industry, however it has affected some genuinely good compliance workshops who are still waiting for compliance rights. And it is a fact that it has left a hole in the jap import industry that has affected us all in some way.

Safe to say that most cars imported under the new rules will be of a higher standard, and any car imported that is not up to standard will be cubed.

DOTARS are busy.............

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34670-confused/#findComment-693551
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got my R34 gearbox around 4-5 weeks ago. Came into some extra $$ recently and after I cleaned the mess off the notes, I thought, might as well buy that R34 box I've been pondering.  In that time I've pulled the engine out, replaced rod and mains bearings, done a few other engine things that are much easier with the engina out eg PRP oil pump upgrade, replacing wastegate coolant lines, installing Turbosmartass turbo oil pressure reg, made some mounting brackets for some of my mods that are "hard to reach", converted the R34 box to R33, put the engine and new gearbox back in the car. Plus cleaning ...Oh my god so much cleaning when doing such a project. Yep I'm a busy bee, buzz buzz. As part of the gearbox project, researched posts and found this thread (In which i nailed it for the OP), hence the post here # logical thinking.. Not all about you old boy, SOrrryyy. Dare I ask,  how's yours going ,> Or you got it done yet, and if so why didn't you post any of the tips I posted to help other members? ???      
    • Seems to be the case mate , still an OK price for a grey import.
    • I’m interested in the carbon diffuser fins and Toshiba MFD screen replacement if they’re still available.
    • @GTSBoy yeah i know it was not the "great" idea but it is and option...but i think i will stay on no BoV rather then trying to make it work with "half" this and that. But that GReddy FV2 is cool...i like that you can make it like stock if you want (and have/make the custom pipes) For other thanks! it was alot of information. But for the sound...a dont rly "like" both of them...specialy if they are loud...but if i "must" choose i would rather have little whooosh rather than sutututu with no BoV....BUT that is what is i gonna get. So for the all info i gather. In my case:  No BoV is not that bad cuz it is stock...and iam used to put N/clutch right after rpms are around 1000 so it should be ok...just need to avoid "big" drops. But i do not have the engine in the car so i do not really know how "bad" or good it is. But as i had that little test drive it looked ok. The atmo BoV should be worse car would dump to much fuel specialy between the shifts...so without proper tune/ECU i dont want that. BUT with that...car should drive ok with no problems right? (i do like there is less piping wih this solution) 🙂 
    • Usually an RB20 won't stay in closed loop idle anyway. The O2 sensor gets too cold, stops swinging.
×
×
  • Create New...