Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was installing the SAFC 2 on my car this morning.

turned on the ignition, blue screen poped up, did the initial setting, tried to start the car, the engine turned but won't start.

The AFC2 is second hand, I re-set to the factory setting and tried all the function, but the car just won't start.

I checked all the wire connection, they seem alright. so I really don't know why.......

any idea?

any help will be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346710-apexi-safc-2-problem/
Share on other sites

by initial setting do you mean that you set the sensor type to Hotwire, Sensor No to 4 In and 4 Out, and Sensor Cal to 1 In and 1 Out. also the Car Select to 6 cylinder and the throttle arrow pointing up.

the other thing that come to mind is the two ground wires, did you get them around the right way i.e brown wire closest the ecu and black wire further back.

if you go into the etc. menu and go sensor check, does anything look out of the ordinary.

I checked with the wires already, it had been connected correctly according to the APEXI installation manual.

QWK32, yes I did all the initial setting like you said and after that the enigne won't start.

when I pulled the plug and re-connected the AFM signal wire back together like factory setting, car started and everything was back to normal.

so.................I still have no idea, is my AFC faulty?

but I can see the blue screen and all function seems alright.

Edited by STAGEA_KING

Yeah too easy mate, the settings aren't that hard to figure out. i just find that 9 times out of 10 SAFC issues are in the setup. I know you've said you checked the wiring, but something else it could be is if you have got the SAFC Air Flow Meter In and Out around the wrong way?

If that is right then as you said, you possibly have a busted unit. I don't know if it would be worth getting someone to check it out to confirm if it is dead or not.

Edited by QWK32

checked with all the wires and connection, everything seems fine.

It seems like there is no AF signal output from AFC.........

does anyone know how to test it?

You could measure the signal from your afm with a multimeter. Turn the safc to zero and it should output the same figure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...