Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mods

-Nur Spec Engine only done less then 20000kms

-Garret 2530-5 Turbo Kit (less then 3000Kms)

-Perfect fit turbo piping cost me $1500 for the perfect piping

-HKS Oil Cooler

-Tomei Dump Pipe

-Trust Front Pipe

-Fujitsubo Super Ti Exhaust with rainbow finished

-ARC Oil Catch

-ARC Air Intake

-Mines Radiator Plate

-Cusco Sway Bars Front & Rear

-HKS Hypermax II Supension Coilover

-Anti Hicas Lock bar

-Nismo 320Km odometer (Black)

-Nismo Upgrade MDF display

Suound System:

- Focal Front Speakers

- Clarion Amp

- Alpine Head Unit (DVD)

its my lovely GTR put soo much effort in to it from shipping to land to Australia and all the mod are carefully done!!! so im the first owner in Australia and own it for 4 years, i blow my enigine last year on track and change to a mint condiditon Nur Spec Engine only done 8000Kms when i brought it

the engine is brought from SAU member "togomatt" the guy has a beautiful GTR 34....

It's regretful to sell, coz im moving back to Hong Kong ><" was going to ship it back with me but the government tax for import is too high...Sign~~

For serious buyers only and must promise me to take care of it !!!

Just came back from oversea, therefore the Ad has been release on the web. urgently sale~~going back oversea soon...

Price can be nego~~~you cant find any better GTR34 then this one with such priced!!!

Price Reduced from $71000 to $68000

Alternativly with out the mods will let go for $60000, the price including the turbo and CPU, cant take them off.

Pictures are on carsales.com

http://www.carsales....seot=1&__N=1216 1282 4294963593 4294963846 4294933125&silo=1011

PM, SMS or Call me on 0434892592 for inspection Kevin"

Edited by kevinisagoodboy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347160-gtr-34-v-spec-ii-pearl-white-4-sale/
Share on other sites

The yellowish stain on the rear bar is probably due to the exhaust i believe. Happens to alot of white coloured sports cars with an exhaust.

I used to have a white skyline as well, after just 1 trackday, the rear bar near the exhaust area becomes yellow.

Not sure if this is the reason for the OP's car being yellow, but the bumper goes yellow from not running a cat. Nothing a bit of pre wax cleaner won't remove.

Any pics of engine bay. Rear bar colour is letting the car down..im still on the hunt for r34 gtr..

the rear is due to the heat of the exhaust...i can do repaint

The yellowish stain on the rear bar is probably due to the exhaust i believe. Happens to alot of white coloured sports cars with an exhaust.

I used to have a white skyline as well, after just 1 trackday, the rear bar near the exhaust area becomes yellow.

u are right man......lol

Not sure if this is the reason for the OP's car being yellow, but the bumper goes yellow from not running a cat. Nothing a bit of pre wax cleaner won't remove.

will remove a bit but still can c the different

Happens to all 34's i think... Mine is silver and it is yellowing too. My mates white 34 is starting to do it too.

all the skylines i think lol....it's just too "hot"

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...