Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I am trying to purchase a R34 GT-T by christmas. I have quite a small question regarding which type to buy. I was planning on getting a 5 speed because I have always had manuals, simple as that. However after doing some extensive research i have notice that a large number of r34's out there are semi-auto's.

So the question is... is there a large difference between the transmissions? When using the semi- how fast are the gear changes, and are there many issues with the semi transmission in general?

For anyone out there who is trying to get rid of there R34's, i am looking for something in the pricerange of 14-15k.

Cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347517-r34-semi-or-manual/
Share on other sites

Hi

Well is a DD or just weekend car,

do you want spend $$$ on clutch flywheel & so on,

You can get a Shift kit & improve the AUTO ,

as if you read many that have done this to there Auto`s.

Hi

Well is a DD or just weekend car,

do you want spend $$$ on clutch flywheel & so on,

You can get a Shift kit & improve the AUTO ,

as if you read many that have done this to there Auto`s.

This would be a DD, selling my current car to make room for this. Want to find on and keep it for a number of years (2-3)... Want to either find one that has 200-300kw or work my way there over the next couple of years...

Ok well it`s your CALL lot`s on here for sale,

I have Stagea that is Auto & will one day get RB3o in here & shift kit,

200/300KW is ok in auto ,& do you want spend money on Clutch set up every few year`s

So the question is... is there a large difference between the transmissions? When using the semi- how fast are the gear changes, and are there many issues with the semi transmission in general?

Umm, yes. Admittedly I've only driven R32 manuals but the Tiptronic box in my R34 GTT is a dog. Upshifts can take up 1-2 seconds, you can brew a coffee whilst waiting, and the tiptronic mode is pretty much useless because of this, I never use it. That said it's ok for puttering around the city in bumper to bumper traffic. But for any kind of performance driving I'll take my weekender's agricultural T56 6-speed + Billet Pro short shifter any day, thank you very much.

For anyone out there who is trying to get rid of there R34's, i am looking for something in the pricerange of 14-15k.

It's a buyer's market out there so don't rush it. If you're planning on modding the car buy one that someone else has done all the basics to and you'll save big $$. Write down your requirements, drive a few different cars, don't buy the first one you have a look at, and get a second opinion on the one you're set on buying (by a workshop or State Roads etc.)

Good luck.

Umm, yes. Admittedly I've only driven R32 manuals but the Tiptronic box in my R34 GTT is a dog. Upshifts can take up 1-2 seconds, you can brew a coffee whilst waiting, and the tiptronic mode is pretty much useless because of this, I never use it. That said it's ok for puttering around the city in bumper to bumper traffic. But for any kind of performance driving I'll take my weekender's agricultural T56 6-speed + Billet Pro short shifter any day, thank you very much.

It's a buyer's market out there so don't rush it. If you're planning on modding the car buy one that someone else has done all the basics to and you'll save big $$. Write down your requirements, drive a few different cars, don't buy the first one you have a look at, and get a second opinion on the one you're set on buying (by a workshop or State Roads etc.)

Good luck.

The problem is I live in Mildura, hence harder to go for test drives.... Would prob just be me paying for a extensive check done by who ever then me going to collect it.

Thanks for the response dude :)

i agree with V28VX37, in standard form the RE4R01B tiptronic auto's that the R34's (also the S2 Stagea's) have is rubbish. sometimes up to 2-3 second wait for the next gear to engage when in tiptronic and in auto mode it can be just as bad. gets even worse after breaking 200rwkw. i was about ready to throw mine out until i got a shift kit, made a world of difference, it shifts almost instantly now even under full load. that said though, in the end if you can afford a manual or an affordable one comes up i'd go for it. i've had my car for a few years now and enjoy driving it but there are those times when i wish it was a manual.

Edited by QWK32

The problem is I live in Mildura, hence harder to go for test drives.... Would prob just be me paying for a extensive check done by who ever then me going to collect it.

Thanks for the response dude :)

No worries. Still, make sure you drive at least one R34 before buying (unless you have already), who knows maybe you don't like it in the first place?

Might even be worth asking a fellow SAUer in north west VIC to take you for a spin in theirs? Just a thought.

No worries. Still, make sure you drive at least one R34 before buying (unless you have already), who knows maybe you don't like it in the first place?

Might even be worth asking a fellow SAUer in north west VIC to take you for a spin in theirs? Just a thought.

I have driven my mates R33 heaps of times, love the way they feel...

North West LOL?? There are only 2 34's here and they have been here for years...

How much are shift kits for these bad boys and labour???

You sure thats the correct model? Cant find much information about it.

Its also not stated on here:

http://en.wikipedia....o_transmissions

sure am. if you want to confirm this for your self just pop the bonnet, look at the blue build plate riveted to the firewall on the drivers side. along with the build date, engine type, car colour, it will also list the transmission it came with from factory. in regards to the shift kit, i paid just under $700 for a full auto service (ie checked and tightened the bands, flushed and replaced the oil etc) and the shift kit, cant remember the exact cost breakdown but from memory the shift kit was about $450-500.

Once kitted the tiptronic B boxes aren't that bad.

It's not even expensive or hard to kit them.. a basic job is removing the 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator pistons/springs and replacing with welsh plugs. That's all that's been done to mine and it went from MASSIVE flare on 1-2 shift and wouldn't go in unless I lifted the gas slightly or bounced the limiter, to just getting the fk in there. If the wheels are spinning, you don't even notice the shift except for the extra smoke :banana:

Getting a shop to fit the welshplugs cost under $200 including fresh fluid, best bang for buck thing done to any of my cars.

As a daily, I quite like the semi-auto, manuals are still where it's at but grinding around in traffic in my heavy clutched 32 was just a PITA, much more casual in the semi-slushbox wagoon of skidness.

Edited by bubba

Getting a shop to fit the welshplugs cost under $200 including fresh fluid, best bang for buck thing done to any of my cars.

Interesting, can anyone recommend a shop in Melbourne who could do this for similar money?

I'm looking at doing a manual conversion at some stage but at $3k+ it's a bit steep, and it would be nice to have a bit less sleepy auto 'box in the meantime.

Interesting, can anyone recommend a shop in Melbourne who could do this for similar money?

I'm looking at doing a manual conversion at some stage but at $3k+ it's a bit steep, and it would be nice to have a bit less sleepy auto 'box in the meantime.

I'm not aware of anyone who does shift kits for a R34 in Victoria, I had mine done by MV autos in South Australia. They seem to be widely regarded as the (only?) place to go to for R34/Stagea boxes.

As for the daily thing, I went with a sedan. 20KG extra weight is well worth the 2 extra doors. A lot of people have the auto and wish they had a manual... Throwing it in D to me is also a lovely option to have when you simply CBF or drive it in traffic that I am sure manual drivers wish they had sometimes. (maybe not much of an issue in Mildura). The Stage 2 Shift kit from MV shifts a lot better than I can in a manual, thats for sure. It's pretty much mandatory equipment if you have a semi-auto.

Interesting, can anyone recommend a shop in Melbourne who could do this for similar money?

I'm looking at doing a manual conversion at some stage but at $3k+ it's a bit steep, and it would be nice to have a bit less sleepy auto 'box in the meantime.

Any competent transmission place should be able to do it, if you have some basic tools and know-how you could do it yourself.

All that needs to be done is to drop the valve body out, remove the accumulator pistons/springs and insert a welsh plug (50mm IIRC) in each hole, then reassemble.

Granted, my mate had a 180sx 200kwatw a couple of years ago, it was a automatic and he had no problems losing himself in a cloud of smoke.... Would love a greater reason than it bieng just "more fun"

I'm just saying, I have more fun with a clutch and stick than a block and D.

Just my two cents from a beginners pov, I got a Series II r34 GTT a few months ago, manual; had the same choice as you milsen.

Tell you what; living in Morrabbin and driving to the city on weekdays i hate manual with a passion. But I still wouldn't change it for the world.

Here's one reason for getting manual over tiptronic. You've got a Shiny R34 Turbo sat there; your mates & even random admirers come to have a look; then they look in and see a

Auto in there; and then all the smart arse comments start. You will never get any respect from the purists driving tiptronic.

Having owned a tiptronic previously i didn't think they were that bad really. you learn a trick or two about how it changes over time

and you can get it to change quite quickly. The trick is to take your foot off at the right time. But ultimately it comes down to the gear ratios

i think. With Manual; you've got an extra gear in there; and geez; by the time you get to third your already going 100km/h +

If your going to buy one of these gorgeous cars buy Manual mate. But be prepared to get the shits in traffic and to pay up to $5000 more :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am getting the same issue. Did you resolve it? I just got it after installing my new super coppermix and literally the same issue, new fork, new 18mm carrier, release bearing that came with the kit and replicated the exact same sound. 
    • If you like - I have the STL files so I can email em. There's a couple of gotchas (i.e the holes are not threaded so you might need/will need) to utilize some M3 melt-in threads for some of the points. However if you want to be super accurate, and are willing to remove your calipers and your SHOCKS it's a really good tool. You also might need to scale the part that measures the tyre width a bit wider. It defaults to a 7.5in tyre and I mean who is running that. Luckily with the magic of CAD this is very easy to rescale.
    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
×
×
  • Create New...