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took it for a thrash one day without realising the BOV plumback hose had come off, sucked in unmetered air and was running at around 13:1 under full load. loaded it up in 3rd for the first time and it pinged pretty hard 4 or 5 times (not audible but was logging at the time). later that day after another 100km or so it started hesitating real bad under any load higher than cruising, started it the next day and made it 500m down the street before it became undriveable (foot to the just to make it idle). started it again a few days later and it started making a bad knocking noise. still has compression so not sure why its running like shit but yer doesnt sound good.

Sorry, that doesnt make any sense, if the BOV waws leaking under full load, it would be blowing, not sucking, and would richen the mixtures. The only way it could lean out is if the pressure reg was T'd off the same vacuum line as the bov?

yer plenty of people shot peen standard rods so it must provide some benifit. just how much tho i dont know. i wouldnt imagine it would be a whole lot though.

im also thinking that new bearings, rod studs, balanced bottom end and limiting rpm to 7000 rpm is gunna play a fare role in longevity of the rods

Edited by tm_r33
  • 2 weeks later...

i've looked through the ACL catelog (which has all out sizes) and there are no conrod big end tunnels that are anywhere close to the rb30 big end size

the rods shouldnt be press fit as nissan rods are designed to have a full floating pin with circlips

i got a cheap set of rb30 H- beams and up graded the ARP bolt closed and honed, didnt need to but did it anyway

Well not if i do RODS myself,i have 2 sets so i will weight & clean then,

only have to get Shotpeened,

Same with Crank get that Welded & sorted,

But iam not looking for big HP its my DD so build stockish motor ,

Well not if i do RODS myself,i have 2 sets so i will weight & clean then,

only have to get Shotpeened,

Same with Crank get that Welded & sorted,

But iam not looking for big HP its my DD so build stockish motor ,

weight and clean as in acid bath then weight match the conrod big ends little ends and total weights?

welding on crank? or do you mean metal spraying? cheaper to buy new crank then the costs of metal spraying, unless you mean press fit and and grub screw crank collar, and tap and fit grub screws to big end journals of crank

anyways main reason i forgot to mention

why not just get the conrods nitrided easier quicker and better then the shotpeening

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