Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im curious about fixing up the suspension on my 96 stagea. I understand its probably well worn out by now, as all the bushings look like the original ones.

Keep in mind I am interested in fixing it up for road comfort, not stiffening or lowering the suspension.

General things I have noticed are the odd knocking noise here and there, creaks and simply a less-than-smooth ride quality. Also I hear a hiss of air coming from the front when I go over speed bumps for example, though I am not sure whether that is an issue.

What are some cost effective measures to return the suspension to its former glory? Are there complete kits of bushings? Could I keep the stock shocks & springs or should they be replaced too?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347957-solutions-for-tired-old-suspension/
Share on other sites

Im curious about fixing up the suspension on my 96 stagea. I understand its probably well worn out by now, as all the bushings look like the original ones.

Keep in mind I am interested in fixing it up for road comfort, not stiffening or lowering the suspension.

General things I have noticed are the odd knocking noise here and there, creaks and simply a less-than-smooth ride quality. Also I hear a hiss of air coming from the front when I go over speed bumps for example, though I am not sure whether that is an issue.

What are some cost effective measures to return the suspension to its former glory? Are there complete kits of bushings? Could I keep the stock shocks & springs or should they be replaced too?

Hey mate.

You obviouly have quite a few options here.

Have a look at SydneyKids group buy thread. I don't think he runs it anymore, but using the partnumbers you can then contact whiteline etc. He did alot of research into the setup and most guys that have any of the parts say that its almost spot on for road use.

Biggest thing u need to get is a rear strut brace and probs swaybar.

Other than that hit up a suspension place n pick their brain. A few places will do free/cheap suspension assesments. So you can work out where needs attention.

Also remember a good set of fully sdjustables will alow you to set things as high/low hard/soft as you want.

Thanks, any rough idea on prices for different parts and labour, just as a reference?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/85592-stagea-group-buy-whiteline-bilstein/

Link for the group buy. Just grab the Part numbers and give whiteline a call.

Labour is going to be totally dependant on where you go. I do all my stuff myself so cant really comment.

1st things I'd be doing (assuming you don't have any damaged bushes etc.) would be suspension, rear strut bar and rear sway bar. (In that order)

But I would recomend getting any damaged bushes replaced 1st.

Also, alot of this stuff is quite easy, if you can turn a ratchet/spanner then you should be able to fit yourself. If your not sure there's tones of info on here. Then just take it for an alignment. :)

Don't forget that if you get the rear strut brace it goes pretty much straight through the centre of your cargo area, so if you're going to be carrying stuff with the seats down, this is something you'll need to take into account.

A rear sway bar should suffice...

Don't forget that if you get the rear strut brace it goes pretty much straight through the centre of your cargo area, so if you're going to be carrying stuff with the seats down, this is something you'll need to take into account.

A rear sway bar should suffice...

Good point, though the Rear Strut Bar I have (Cusco Strut Bar) can be unbolted quited easily. (not from the strut towers, the center bar is separate to the strut tower brackets)

Im curious about fixing up the suspension on my 96 stagea. I understand its probably well worn out by now, as all the bushings look like the original ones.

Keep in mind I am interested in fixing it up for road comfort, not stiffening or lowering the suspension.

General things I have noticed are the odd knocking noise here and there, creaks and simply a less-than-smooth ride quality. Also I hear a hiss of air coming from the front when I go over speed bumps for example, though I am not sure whether that is an issue.

What are some cost effective measures to return the suspension to its former glory? Are there complete kits of bushings? Could I keep the stock shocks & springs or should they be replaced too?

Ring around for best price on bushes ( they can be quite expensive). A good suspension shop should have a machine to test your shocks or you could do it youreslf: push each corner up and down a couple of times and let go on the down stroke - it should pop up and stop - if it keeps on going up and down the shocks are shot. The original springs should still be OK but if you need new shocks common or garden variety should be fine - you probably don't want adjustables as it sounds like your'e not planning any track work- cheap adjustables are cr*p and you won't want to pay unnecessarily to get top quality ones. Better than stock shocks would be a set of Bilsteins which will handle better and can also be recondtioned in the future .A heavier rear sway bar would be good.

Can you do a pic please? I need the space but I need the handling caus I live on a mountain. My sus is about ready to be rejuvenated,

[/quote ] Its hard to post pictures now. if you click on the link below and go to post 36 you will find a couple of pics of the bar and my instructions for fitting it. It takes a while to fit the barckets to the strut towers but less than a minute to remove or replacxe the bar once it is installed.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/258793-rear-strut-brace/page__pid__4508472__st__20

Can you do a pic please? I need the space but I need the handling caus I live on a mountain. My sus is about ready to be rejuvenated.

Its hard to post pictures now. if you click on the link below and go to post 36 you will find a couple of pics of the bar and my instructions for fitting it. It takes a while to fit the barckets to the strut towers but less than a minute to remove or replacxe the bar once it is installed.

http://www.skylinesa...4508472__st__20

NOTE: Greddy Rear Strut Bars for the Stag have been discontinued. There is still the Cusco one http://www.rhdjapan....ear-nissan-9597 . The one in the pic is not exactly what it looks like. They just use a generic pic. The Stag one's center bar is straighter. But make sure u get the "OS" not the "AS", as the "OS" is stronger, more resistant to flex. :)

Edited by mattye

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...