Jump to content
SAU Community

Da Bitch Is Back

Guest INASNT

By Guest INASNT,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Nahh - not true at all... My turbo's a low mount! :(

 

matt

dont worry, he knows it's gonna fit.

He just trying to make himself sound better as he paid for a manifold and i didnt :aroused:

Actually the GT30 is the same size as the old t3/4 that i pulled off.

So it's almost a direct bolt back in. With a stoke of luck the dump pipe might go back on too.

It'll be very close looking at it all.

acsplit Veteran

acsplit

Posted
Posted
dont worry, he knows it's gonna fit.

He just trying to make himself sound better as he paid for a manifold and i didnt   :aroused:  

Actually the GT30 is the same size as the old t3/4 that i pulled off.

So it's almost a direct bolt back in. With a stoke of luck the dump pipe might go back on too.  

It'll be very close looking at it all.

yes but it was a tight fit @ that :P

yeah gt30 lowmount can be done but not if you get a dodgy manifold :0

Guest INASNT

Guest INASNT

Posted
Posted

Got my XTR exhaust housing thermal blanket. Bit of a bitch to fit coz the turbo is so close to the cam covers.

Also i was sizing up some rice for the engine bay, namly new hoses, pressure piping etc. :D

Got my HKS EVC 3 arriving on tuesday so i will run a few more psi and see what it pulls out.

  • 4 weeks later...
Guest INASNT

Guest INASNT

Posted
Posted
Looks like the the HKS EVC is handling your boost ok... how are you finding it?

I got a HKS EVC 3 and it works so much better with an external gate than the greedy profec b spec 2.

Car is getting detailed this week inside and out for autosalon as i will post some pics of it after that coz it preety filthy atthe moment. :D

Guest INASNT

Guest INASNT

Posted
Posted
nice power curve dude, it looks like it's got the minerals up top.

good results for 20psi.

mine goes on the dyno tomorrow, to do a power run as it is, and then boost's going up  ;-)

I was gonna chuck some 106 RON fuel in there and play around a bit but it a nice safe tune for now so the engine survives till i decide to decompress it and beef up the bottom end.

JET-RB Rising Star

JET-RB

Posted
Posted

Wow! that's great denham. How safe is it at 280rwkw, I'm only asking as I was planning on getting my tuned for around 250-260rwkw as I was told that would be safe. Hanging to get my car back. I also ended up going for the gcg high mount manifold... :rofl:

Guest INASNT

Guest INASNT

Posted
Posted
Wow! that's great denham. How safe is it at 280rwkw, I'm only asking as I was planning on getting my tuned for around 250-260rwkw as I was told that would be safe. Hanging to get my car back. I also ended up going for the gcg high mount manifold... :rofl:

not very safe if u hit boost in 3rd at around 100 with a bit of moisture on the road and u go across 3 lanes sideways till u pull 4th gear :D

I drive on 1 bar most of the time on low boost which is about 250rwkw and only 19psi for fun times!!

If u dont drive like a knob all the time then ur engine will be safe, just keep an eye out on the knock levels when u r giving it a hard time

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • sonicii
      Could it really happen......

      By sonicii · Posted

      I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • MBS206
      Could it really happen......

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...