Jump to content
SAU Community

Faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor


Recommended Posts

So i have had an issue with this for some time now, but i really can't afford to fix it. New from Nissan cost $700~800 and then the mechanics cost would probably bring it to $1100~. He said (the mechanic) that you can try find a second hand one... but i really don't think that's a great idea...

So pretty much i am looking for a easy solution.

Problems that occur with it;

(On random occasions)

During idle the engine malfunction light will pop on, and so the fun begins.

Idle, revs drop almost to 0 and car will tremble profusely.

Noise change, sounds like its constantly coughing. (or the engine is flooding)

Slow down! The car will struggle to accelerate.

If someone knows of a person or business i may be able to see, preferably around South east i would be extremely grateful!

I have tried looking around, but usually its the same answer.

Otherwise its reasonably safe to leave it unfixed right? Not like it can really do any harm..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348078-faulty-crankshaft-position-sensor/
Share on other sites

Do you mean the crank angle sensor? CAS?

Just get a second hand one for $50-$100. Make sure you don't over tighten the bolts that hold it on because that can lead to failure.

Or if you remove the timing belt cover and drive the car like that, make sure you use a few washers to space out the CAS.

They seem to fail by putting to much force onto the spindle inside of it and it seperates from the wheel inside.

Easy way to test it is to remove it from the car and spin the spindle. It should spin very freely and not make any noise. If it is a bit ruff or feels like there is sand in it (it is actually metal shavings) and makes a bit of a grinding noise than it is definetely on it's way out. Once it fails completely you will not be able to start the car.

Thanks for the information! I will give that a go, no noise like the one you mentioned as of yet, and yeah crank angle sensor sorry. The mechanic had given me the wrong information.

Much appreciated :wub:

No worries man.

I had mine fail on me while at a friends place with a pissed of ex gf at the time. Car wouldn't start and I couldn't figure out why. Rage doesn't begin to describe that night.

So yeah, I realise how annoying CAS' can be :P

do u know what the fault code is when the engine light comes on.? r34's have issues with coil packs, which could also be your problem, dodgy coilpacks in r34's bring up a ignition signal fault code. im guessing its a r34.

do u know what the fault code is when the engine light comes on.? r34's have issues with coil packs, which could also be your problem, dodgy coilpacks in r34's bring up a ignition signal fault code. im guessing its a r34.

It is an R34. Well the thing is i was told originally by two mechanics that it was the secondary coilpack. The little computer (the engine scanner) changed from the first scan.

The order of scan that detected fault:

Check Crank Position Sensor

Check Cam Position Sensor. (Faulty may effect performance).

I don't remember the fault code for the coilpack. I am thinking it was code 21? But not 100%

  • Like 1

It is an R34. Well the thing is i was told originally by two mechanics that it was the secondary coilpack. The little computer (the engine scanner) changed from the first scan.

The order of scan that detected fault:

Check Crank Position Sensor

Check Cam Position Sensor. (Faulty may effect performance).

I don't remember the fault code for the coilpack. I am thinking it was code 21? But not 100%

Yep 21 is ignition signal i.e. coil packs.

I had a stuffed CAS with similar issues as to what you describe above. Mine cost around $500 from memory (parts and labour), they rebuilt it with parts from another CAS.

I'd certainly get it fixed, it's no good for the engine driving around with a malfunctioning CAS.

Just to update, this is my third mechanics results. Kinda seems like he is confident about it.

This is the scan:

Code001:

P132 IGN SIGNAL-PRIMARY

It is costing almost $2000 to fix this.

I was told to replace all the coils. After being dicked around twice before i am a little worried about this. So hard to find good mechanics these days... So only one is failing, i can see a upside to changing all 6. But $2000 for them feels a bit steep.

I will be going to another mechanic who is meant to be quite trustworthy. I guess the adventure continues.

I appreciate all the help guys.

Just to update, this is my third mechanics results. Kinda seems like he is confident about it.

This is the scan:

Code001:

P132 IGN SIGNAL-PRIMARY

It is costing almost $2000 to fix this.

I was told to replace all the coils. After being dicked around twice before i am a little worried about this. So hard to find good mechanics these days... So only one is failing, i can see a upside to changing all 6. But $2000 for them feels a bit steep.

I will be going to another mechanic who is meant to be quite trustworthy. I guess the adventure continues.

I appreciate all the help guys.

$2000 for 6 coilpacks? wtf mechanic are you going to. Any import mechanic knows about Splitfire coilpacks which sell for $300-$400 brand new??

Stop messing around with dud mechanics and get over to http://www.revzone.com.au/contact-us or http://recustoms.com.au

/end

What you describe sounds like a problem I had on my 33 with the CAS. Turned out to be a crack in the mounting bracket that would let the CAS rotate by 2° or 3°. Putting your hand on the CAS and pushing it towards the cam would change the "note" in and out of tune. Bracket was $20.oo I think.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...