Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys.I currently have a turbosmart boost T ,one of the latest type with the ball and spring and was just wondering if a turbotech would be any better? I will be getting a retune soon with bigger injectors and z32 afm to go with my current turbo which is a apexi ax53b70p25.The common trend with these internal wastegate turbos is that they tend to drop a few pounds of boost towards redline. Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348562-turbotech-vs-turbosmart/
Share on other sites

there is a thread on here some where thats like 70 hundred pages long about the turbotech boost controller being the best so i brought one in short it was shit. i now have a turbosmart T and think it is heaps better.

I had a better boost curve running the Turbosmart than the blitz ebc I upgraded to, although the ebc does ramp on the boost a little quicker.

Either of these cheap manual regulator style controllers should do the job perfectly. If your boost curve still drops off it wont be the controller, more likely you would need a stronger wastegate actuator.

+1 to turbotech!

Had a GFB bleed installed set to 12psi,

then switched to a turbotech (just to test) and the car hit 12psi so much quicker then the GFB, ditched the GFB immediately.

turbotech will be my only manual bleed valve choice, other then that, EBC it is :)

Thanks for the replies guys. I think i will look into getting a stronger actuator to suit my turbo.Does anybody know if a hks or garrett actuator will fit my apexi turbo?The actuator on it is apparently a 12psi.Cheers.

Buy an EBC. The cheapness of skyline owners never ceases to amaze me. It is scrooge season though I suppose.

So do you believe an EBC will stop my boost dropping at high Rpm,cause if so that is all i'm looking for?

A decent electronic boost controller is always going to be better then a bleed valve if set up right.

Just Jap have the Blitz Dual SBC Spec R boost conrollers going for $599. Its not cheap but you will get great results....

here is my boost graph its holding 22psi with a 15psi actuator.

post-32514-0-25374400-1293926323_thumb.jpg

A decent electronic boost controller is always going to be better then a bleed valve if set up right.

Just Jap have the Blitz Dual SBC Spec R boost conrollers going for $599. Its not cheap but you will get great results....

here is my boost graph its holding 22psi with a 15psi actuator.

post-32514-0-25374400-1293926323_thumb.jpg

The actuator is doing most of the work in your setup, try that with a 7psi spring. I have the same Blitz unit, it wont hold boost any better than the Turbosmart as my actuator is blowing open.

The Turbosmart and Turbotech ones are not bleed valves, they are regulators that are run in line, just like an ebc. They are great if hooked up correctly, not just for tight arses.

and a turbotech is not a bleed valve. it's a ball and spring type that blocks the pressure to the actuator until desired boost is reached, at which point the pressure is passed through.

very simple. very effective. very cheap.

but it only holds one boost level throughout the rpm range, and isnt configurable in any other parameters, obviously.

so depending what you need. ebc may be better, or may be a waste of money.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...