Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys.I currently have a turbosmart boost T ,one of the latest type with the ball and spring and was just wondering if a turbotech would be any better? I will be getting a retune soon with bigger injectors and z32 afm to go with my current turbo which is a apexi ax53b70p25.The common trend with these internal wastegate turbos is that they tend to drop a few pounds of boost towards redline. Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348562-turbotech-vs-turbosmart/
Share on other sites

there is a thread on here some where thats like 70 hundred pages long about the turbotech boost controller being the best so i brought one in short it was shit. i now have a turbosmart T and think it is heaps better.

I had a better boost curve running the Turbosmart than the blitz ebc I upgraded to, although the ebc does ramp on the boost a little quicker.

Either of these cheap manual regulator style controllers should do the job perfectly. If your boost curve still drops off it wont be the controller, more likely you would need a stronger wastegate actuator.

+1 to turbotech!

Had a GFB bleed installed set to 12psi,

then switched to a turbotech (just to test) and the car hit 12psi so much quicker then the GFB, ditched the GFB immediately.

turbotech will be my only manual bleed valve choice, other then that, EBC it is :)

Thanks for the replies guys. I think i will look into getting a stronger actuator to suit my turbo.Does anybody know if a hks or garrett actuator will fit my apexi turbo?The actuator on it is apparently a 12psi.Cheers.

Buy an EBC. The cheapness of skyline owners never ceases to amaze me. It is scrooge season though I suppose.

So do you believe an EBC will stop my boost dropping at high Rpm,cause if so that is all i'm looking for?

A decent electronic boost controller is always going to be better then a bleed valve if set up right.

Just Jap have the Blitz Dual SBC Spec R boost conrollers going for $599. Its not cheap but you will get great results....

here is my boost graph its holding 22psi with a 15psi actuator.

post-32514-0-25374400-1293926323_thumb.jpg

A decent electronic boost controller is always going to be better then a bleed valve if set up right.

Just Jap have the Blitz Dual SBC Spec R boost conrollers going for $599. Its not cheap but you will get great results....

here is my boost graph its holding 22psi with a 15psi actuator.

post-32514-0-25374400-1293926323_thumb.jpg

The actuator is doing most of the work in your setup, try that with a 7psi spring. I have the same Blitz unit, it wont hold boost any better than the Turbosmart as my actuator is blowing open.

The Turbosmart and Turbotech ones are not bleed valves, they are regulators that are run in line, just like an ebc. They are great if hooked up correctly, not just for tight arses.

and a turbotech is not a bleed valve. it's a ball and spring type that blocks the pressure to the actuator until desired boost is reached, at which point the pressure is passed through.

very simple. very effective. very cheap.

but it only holds one boost level throughout the rpm range, and isnt configurable in any other parameters, obviously.

so depending what you need. ebc may be better, or may be a waste of money.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...