Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know of a GTR making near on 400rwkw on stock rods (racepace dyno) which have been running in that tune for quite a while. It should be running @ Calder tonight. Not sure whether that car is just a freak, but it gets track raced very frequently, although I think that's running less boost at the track.

Emre & PH1's GTR's both make over 340rwkw and have been running around for over a year without any probs...

In any case, I haven't heard of anyone bending a rod on a GTR motor.

Cheers,

matt

  INASNT said:
so geoff how much rwkw power u recon u can get with your gtr rods before they start to bend?

My engine died at somewhere between 340-380hp. I'm not sure as it wasnt dyno'd fully before the compression went on cyclinder 6 and 3 when the ringlands failed. Boost was around the 1.1-1.2bar (probably spiked to 1.3bar early on in the rpm limit and then settled down to 1.1-1.2) Pulling apart the engine we found that all the engine components were in excellent condition it was just a couple of weak ringlands that spoilt the fun. Just goes to show that you should always service the engine with good quality synthetic oil and regularly :P

  matlowth said:
!

 

I've just got shot peened, nitried rods...  They are series 3 VL rods though - apparently they were slightly thicker at the big end than the series 2....  Doubt that's gonna make it much stronger though...

 

 

matt

matt , while i dont doubt your expertise i didnt know there was a series three VL rod . Ive had a 11 sec vl a few years ago ( its now in the 10s ) and it used the std rod ( still does) with no dramas , it was just a 87 mdl turbo . In all the years of being in the VL scene ( ive moved on ) i never noticed a difference between rod thinkness and rods where never an issue at the time .

adam.

Actually RS500 would also have a fair amount experiance with vl rods as we had our cars at the same time.

Ring lands are a real problem in 25t's stock, but like everyone else I was chasing too much power on a stock setup and intercooler.

I have to say the engine is a smooth as silk now and has great power on stock boost with the new Hybrid 800hp FMIC. I put the temp probe back in after the cooler and it was static 34 deg then during a couple of power runs Dropped to 28... the ambient temp with no water spray on the cooler. I am really impressed.

Has anyone got any thoughts on the crank limit of the RB25, as well as the head for max rpm?

Hi Geoff, I have yet to find an rpm limit for an RB crank, if the balance is good.

I am not sure what you mean by the rpm limit of the head.

Is that the lifters? Cause 8,500 rpm seems to be a workable limit.

Is that valve springs? We change to Isky's when we go solid lifters so I guess 8,500 rpm is all I can say.

Is that cams? Standard cams seem to be OK to around 8,000 rpm, but power does start to drop off at 7,000 rpm unless you run a lot of boost. I haven't found the limit of after market cams, HKS have used 11,000 rpm.

Is that the ports? Cause there is no difference between and RB25 head casting and an RB26 head casting in that area. So it purely depends on boost and air flow, but 12,000 rpm looks OK on our flow bench.

Ditto valves, you can go 1 mm larger but that is way over 1,000 bhp stuff,

Does that answer your question?

SK, once again, just gold. I have to admit I am looking to have a few rpm up the sleeve since changing ratios is a bit of a drama. Just to add to track flexibility, but without knowing any better I would be foolish to overdo it.

I was well known for valve bouncing the good old 18RG in the toyota rally car, fortunately without catastrophe. I'd call 8500 sufficient. Damn this thing is smooth now. Might have to plagarise smoothline's quote.

Do the 25's have a problem with 'pumping up' the lash adjusters/lifters like the scoobs with more power and rpm? Stated that the valves were failing to close fully by a poofteenth. It was considered mandatory to go to solid lifters a'la RB26 if pushing over some magical power figure. Obviously not since you consider the standard items good for 8500.

Hi Geoff, if you run too much boost, the standard valve springs aren't strong enough to close the inlet valves. That is more of a limit than pure rpm. The hydraulics will pump up, it get worse with age, regualr use of 8,250 seems to be no problem though.

SK, thanks. I may start to tweak the rpm limit when I go for tuning.

Steve-SST, how long did it run at that rpm limit and when you say he drove it fairly hard, including track effort?

Roy, I was an AutoCad guy, but now have Solidworks 3D design tool and Cosmosworks for the FEA and am sold completely. $30K for the lot with a good notebook to run it all. Gives a full 3D rendered avi of the deformation. Solid, shells, thinwalled members, heat, animation of multiple objects with constraints, interference, design optimization. Just no computational fluid dynamics. Would have been handy when I had to wind tunnel test an armoured vehicle which cost 200K. Coulda CFD'd instead.

Hrmmm - that was just what my mechanic called it... Dunno the specifics on it, but I know it was "slightly" thicker than the normal ones...

My mechanic said he'd never come across them before...

If I remember correctly, I think the Nizpro guys said the limit for stock rods is around 500-550 ft/lbs of torque... Run less than that, and they're fairly reliable, much more than that, and the chance of bending a rod goes up exponentially.

Cheers,

matt

  FLYGTR said:
matt , while i dont doubt your expertise i didnt know there was a series three VL rod . Ive had a 11 sec vl a few years ago ( its now in the 10s ) and it used the std rod ( still does) with no dramas , it was just a 87 mdl turbo . In all the years of being in the VL scene ( ive moved on ) i never noticed a difference between rod thinkness and rods where never an issue at the time .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I didn't know about induction heaters but checked them out and they look awesome but too pricey for the occasional job like this. And I'm too nervous to take a flame anywhere near there as the petrol tank is so close, although I was intrigued with the crayons suggestion 馃榿 I filled a coke bottle lid with penetrating fluid and raised it on the jack so the nut was submerged in it all night. Then went in with a tiny cold chisel and got it almost to the point of splitting but not quite (I didn't want to damage the bolt threads). Then I hammered a socket back on and gently worked it until I felt movement. And it's off 馃榾
    • I should. But it already uses too much fuel for a daily. You might note my recco for engine chnages are almost exclusively to people who have it as a weekender/summer car. I don't even have room to keep the spares for this one, let alone another car.
    • If I had "perfect R33 GTR" kinda money I would have bought one of the crazy expensive low mileage HJA cars, but I am sadly not that wealthy. I already picked this car out of various Skylines for sale locally, most of which were worse in some way. Only a few cars were actually better but also more expensive. In terms of buying a motor locally, I at least have the option to inspect it myself and juding the seller as a person, and used or freshly rebuilt engines that some people sell are actually ok price-wise. I knew the car was going to require work, but shit piled up real fast and I haven't even driven 1000km yet as the turbo started oiling like a bitch within a few weeks after I got the car.   I assume it wasn't actually me who cracked it, though there is no way to know when that crack formed and if the previous owner even knew it was there. Buying another 05U Block can be a gamble, yeah, but the cheapest PRP cast block is like twice or more money-wise, and billet is 3 or 3 times as much. For now I am most likely just keeping the current engine, as a rebuild or engine swap isn't happening right now. But I am seriously considering buying a second engine and selling mine in return. Might be a sweet deal at the end.
    • Hi all. I need some help buying the correct size banjo bolts for my 2860 turbos. Because whoever installed them tore up the original part, I ordered new ones of this kind, because I just figured these were the most leak-resistant option as I already had trouble with a shitty braided line. I need to know the thread size of the smaller left hole, that is the turbo oil feed connection. I found out so far that the turbo oil inlet apparently has a 7/16"-24 thread, but I cannot find any listing or description of the thread size on this line. I do not have the original bolts. I tried using the bolts that were in the turbos (the ones that were mounted with the shitty braided line) but they sit very loosely so they can't be the right thread. Means either these bolts are the wrong ones (how do they fit the turbo then? no clue) or the wraparound-lines have a different thread than the turbo oil feed itself. Help is appreciated, asking Nissan directly is obviously not going to work.
  • Create New...