Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i have an r32 gtr here which i am in the latter stages of wrecking and i need to get rid of the leftovers to make some space

missing parts

motor

box

diff

brakes

hubs

seats

spoiler

cooler

front bar

rough idea of whats left

all body wiring

all driveshafts and tailshafts

blitz oil filter and relocator and cooler setup

17x9 forged 3 piece zepter wheels and new tyres... check my other topics

perfect 10 out of 10 condition projector headlights

complete doors

fuel tank

suspension arms

trust damper adjustable suspension (unknown condition)

various interior and dash parts inc a good dash shell

bootlid

rear bumper and reo

ALL glass

there is alot more left but that gives you an idea of whats left

basically ask me here and or via pm if i have something and ill let you know, will do a good deal on bulk purchases of parts

im happy to post smaller items if you cover costs or pickup from toowoomba qld is fine... roughly 1 hr west of brissy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348962-wrecking-r32-gtr-leftover-parts/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 105
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Can I come and have a look at the car.

Im in se qld as well and will bring cash with me. just want to have a look as there are lots of small parts I am after

Pm me on

0410665701

my pm inbox isnt full i think theres a problem with the system

$220 the pair of headlights as ive said theyre absolutly faultless for their age, about as good as youll find

i do have a wiper switch but it will be staying with the complete cluster surround panel sorry

no bonnet catch and yes i do have the headlight wiring section but im not cutting up a perfect uncut lighting loom to seperate that, theyre too hard to find undamaged, sorry

no g sensor

no indicator

might be cutting up the shell but definatly not posting to melb lol

all boot trim is gone

the rad mounts have been sold

all front end panels have been sold

i do still have the oil cooler setup at the moment though , pm sent

thanks guys

hey mate

im not after a big part of the boot floor. basically about 800-900mm in length and maybe 300-400mm wide, 200ish mm deep. could be sent pretty cheaply in a box as i doubt it would weigh that much...

let me know if you can help me out man

Hi mate,Im just wondering if you got the rear boot linkages and the metal bits that the boot bolts on to ? Its together with all the links under the boot..

If you do,how much do you want for posted to Sydney 2170 ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...