Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just after a point in the right direction, have searched but not found any 100% answer on this - I wanted to check the ignition timing on my series 2 R33, I have a pretty basic powered timing light. I've read that you can put the inductive clamp on the timing light onto a looped wire that runs off the coil loom near the firewall, with there being no ignition leads on the motor to run it off. There are two looped wires though on mine, one all white, the other black with a white stripe - anyone know which one to use, or have any other handy info on checking/setting the timing? pointers would be appreciated :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349069-how-to-check-ignition-timing-on-r33/
Share on other sites

I couldnt get my supercheap timing light to work with the looped wire

what i did was find an old ignition lead, pull the coilpack out of cylinder one, put one end of the lead on the spark plug, stick a bolt in the coilpack (one that fits snug but still makes contact) and then run the other end of the ignition lead to the bolt. Then just run the timing light as normal off the lead

What you have to do to get a correct reading however is pull the TPS plug off (Not sure which one, just pull both I guess) and it should give you the true base timing.

Im not sure what the go is with the looped wire, some people can get it to work others cant. The way I mentioned is the easiest if you cant get the looped wire to work anyway.

oh ok, I didn't know about the pulling the TPS off part.

Yeah my light is just a supercheap job too, hoping it will work on the looped wire but will see. Do you know which looped wire to use? as mentioned, there are 2 on mine. I'll try both I guess, but just trying to narrow it down

pretty sure with disconnecting the TPS you have to have the car warm, turn the car off, unplug the TPS, start the car again, rev to over 2500rpm 3 times in 5 seconds. this put the ecu into base idle/timing mode. once done checking the timing simply turn the car off and plug back in the TPS.

and as 89cal said, the old ignition lead method is the easiest and most reliable way to get the timing light to work properly.

I didnt know that last bit... but then again i did mine with a power fc so might be different.

handy to know but :)

and FYI when I did my base timing, i could notice the timing on the hand controller dropped from 20 to around 14 when i unplugged the TPS (with it running) so i just ran with that. next time i might try doing as you suggest with turning it off, unplugging tps then revving it.

might not need to be done for the PFC.

if you have an ecu with a hand controller you can simply match the timing on the ecu to the timing with the light. it doesn't have to be in base timing mode. same goes for a consult cable and a consult program, however some consult programs also have a base idle/timing mode function in them. which allow you to lock it into that mode without having to unplug the TPS

with my timing light i found that when i clip on the sensor wire it doesnt give a proper reading, i just leave the sensor unclipped and 'hanging' off the loop wire it works fine. bit weird but it works.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstah, no, coilovers aren't illegal, especially as a bolt straight in. The illegal part will be if they're altering suspension geometry beyond factory limits, or the ride height is not legal.   Sounds like the blue slipper just didn't want to deal with any later possibility of mods appearing on the car.
    • The problem has always been that coilovers are able to be adjusted, almost at any time, to be too low. Most people who ever get/got defected for/with coilovers were actually afoul of the minimum ride height rule. So the interpretation by cops/inspectors was always that it is pointless to allow numpty to raise his coilovers and get the car inspected/cleared, then just drop them back down again as soon as they get around the corner from the inspection station.  This led to the interpretation that they were illegal unless rendered such that they can't be adjusted (ie, collars welded to the body, that sort of thing). That may or may not have ever actually been the official line, but I'm pretty sure it's not considered to be a solution these days. Coilovers themselves fall under clause 3.2 b of that manual, because they are an "installation of a variable ride height system" and they don't fit the exclusions in that clause (which point to air springs and other pneumatic adjusters). So, as per previous statements, they require engineering cert to be legal on the road. Once you have such cert, provided you do not adjust them outside the height range covered by the cert, you are OK. Without, you have an unroadworthy vehicle.
    • Here E10 is the cheapest fuel. And general advice is to not use it unless you hate your car. From what I remember it clogs up stuff in the fuel system or injectors?  With US/Canada being E10 across the board, does that mean that all fuel there is terrible?
    • Sorry, are coilovers ACTUALLY ILLEGAL in NSW? They aren't in Vic, as long as they retain 70% of stock travel and the car is above 100mm off the ground. Does NSW actually have a law making coilovers actually illegal? RWC/Blue Slip/Engineering people not knowing the actual f**king laws boils my blood. Demand them to point to the documentation that states a coilover is illegal. (it may exist in NSW ) Edit: I checked. They aren't. https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-infosheet-light-vehicle-modifications-manual-suspension-and-ride-height.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...