Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just after a point in the right direction, have searched but not found any 100% answer on this - I wanted to check the ignition timing on my series 2 R33, I have a pretty basic powered timing light. I've read that you can put the inductive clamp on the timing light onto a looped wire that runs off the coil loom near the firewall, with there being no ignition leads on the motor to run it off. There are two looped wires though on mine, one all white, the other black with a white stripe - anyone know which one to use, or have any other handy info on checking/setting the timing? pointers would be appreciated :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349069-how-to-check-ignition-timing-on-r33/
Share on other sites

I couldnt get my supercheap timing light to work with the looped wire

what i did was find an old ignition lead, pull the coilpack out of cylinder one, put one end of the lead on the spark plug, stick a bolt in the coilpack (one that fits snug but still makes contact) and then run the other end of the ignition lead to the bolt. Then just run the timing light as normal off the lead

What you have to do to get a correct reading however is pull the TPS plug off (Not sure which one, just pull both I guess) and it should give you the true base timing.

Im not sure what the go is with the looped wire, some people can get it to work others cant. The way I mentioned is the easiest if you cant get the looped wire to work anyway.

oh ok, I didn't know about the pulling the TPS off part.

Yeah my light is just a supercheap job too, hoping it will work on the looped wire but will see. Do you know which looped wire to use? as mentioned, there are 2 on mine. I'll try both I guess, but just trying to narrow it down

pretty sure with disconnecting the TPS you have to have the car warm, turn the car off, unplug the TPS, start the car again, rev to over 2500rpm 3 times in 5 seconds. this put the ecu into base idle/timing mode. once done checking the timing simply turn the car off and plug back in the TPS.

and as 89cal said, the old ignition lead method is the easiest and most reliable way to get the timing light to work properly.

I didnt know that last bit... but then again i did mine with a power fc so might be different.

handy to know but :)

and FYI when I did my base timing, i could notice the timing on the hand controller dropped from 20 to around 14 when i unplugged the TPS (with it running) so i just ran with that. next time i might try doing as you suggest with turning it off, unplugging tps then revving it.

might not need to be done for the PFC.

if you have an ecu with a hand controller you can simply match the timing on the ecu to the timing with the light. it doesn't have to be in base timing mode. same goes for a consult cable and a consult program, however some consult programs also have a base idle/timing mode function in them. which allow you to lock it into that mode without having to unplug the TPS

with my timing light i found that when i clip on the sensor wire it doesnt give a proper reading, i just leave the sensor unclipped and 'hanging' off the loop wire it works fine. bit weird but it works.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...