Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi I am new to the site, and am currently working on a S13 240sx with an RB25 R34 NEO engine swap. Due to my turbo placement and intercooler piping setup i bought a Greddy "style" intake manifold. My question is what have others done to use the NEO's top feed style injectors with the Greddy style manifold. I made a bracket to physically relocate the fuel rail but there is considerable slop between the injector and the injector bung walls on the manifold. Looking for some ideas as to what others have done to make this combination work

OR....

Are there any cheap alternatives in terms of fuel rails or easy to source stock injectors from other models that may fit (keeping budget friendly in mind haha) I am in the states so r33 injectors and fuel rails dont pop up too often for sale.

Thank you! I have spent a lot of time searching for the answer but not a specific solution other than many people buying new rails and aftermarket injectors. Thanks!!

Edited by getslideways

I just got NEO fuel rail mounts rewelded to a position suitable for Greddy manifold. Costed ~20$.

Do you have any pics? If so it would be greatly appreciated! Also what did you end up using for injector o-rings/sealing rings? Thanks!

I made a bracket to relocate and space the NEO fuel rail and injectors that seems like it will work (still curious to see yours) but now need to make a good seal between the NEO injectors and the inside the intake manifold injector bung somehow, since there seems to be some slop and not air tight

thanks!

Edited by getslideways

or gtr rail and spacers. Use the rb25 rubber seals in manifold or get adapters.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/306527-r33-greddy-inlet-plenum-onto-a-rb25det-neo/page__hl__greddy+inlet+neo__st__20

I have done this conversion on my neo

Read my last post, item no.6

Edited by darrinspencer

Hey Darrin,

so theres no aftermarket fuel rails out there to accept the GTT/Stagea injectors?

i wanna do this but dont want to change my injectors.

When I set my imitation greddy manifold on my neo motor, I fitted factory gtt injectors and rail, by slotting the holes in the rail, and making a spacer. and got new O-rings that had thicker sidewalls. Fitted tight. cost 5 dollars from a local bearing supplier. Just make sure if you do do this they're up to withstanding fuel.

Hey Darrin,

so theres no aftermarket fuel rails out there to accept the GTT/Stagea injectors?

i wanna do this but dont want to change my injectors.

The aftermarket fuel rail (cheap chinese HKS copy) fits the injectors.

What the OP was asking was how to fit the neo injectors in the greddy manifold as the greddy is made for R33 side feed injectors.

All you do is keep the standard O ring on the bottom of the injector plus add the R33/S15 larger grommets to fill the manifold.

As long as you have enough clampping pressure on the rail they will seal

Status posted some pic's on here somewhere showing a close up.

The aftermarket fuel rail (cheap chinese HKS copy) fits the injectors.

What the OP was asking was how to fit the neo injectors in the greddy manifold as the greddy is made for R33 side feed injectors.

All you do is keep the standard O ring on the bottom of the injector plus add the R33/S15 larger grommets to fill the manifold.

As long as you have enough clampping pressure on the rail they will seal

Status posted some pic's on here somewhere showing a close up.

Cheers for that,

so these would fit my neo motor? Some say " Single entry single return configuration", my rail has 2 regs, can i still use both regs

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/R32-R33-R34-GTS-BILLET-INJECTOR-FUEL-RAIL-RB25DET-RB25-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3363e700ebQQitemZ220719415531QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Cheers for that,

so these would fit my neo motor? Some say " Single entry single return configuration", my rail has 2 regs, can i still use both regs

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/R32-R33-R34-GTS-BILLET-INJECTOR-FUEL-RAIL-RB25DET-RB25-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3363e700ebQQitemZ220719415531QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

That is exactly what I used, but I did away with twin factory reg's and fitted a Sard one, even thuo I did not really need and adjustable one with the siemen 650cc injectors I used.

Just be away of the cheap copies. I had fuel leaking from both ends and had to get the end re machined square to seal.

I may just have got a dud one which is not unusual for cheap chinese crap.

Can buy genuine HKS but $300++

Do you have any pics? If so it would be greatly appreciated! Also what did you end up using for injector o-rings/sealing rings? Thanks!

I made a bracket to relocate and space the NEO fuel rail and injectors that seems like it will work (still curious to see yours) but now need to make a good seal between the NEO injectors and the inside the intake manifold injector bung somehow, since there seems to be some slop and not air tight

thanks!

Sorry for delay, didn't see your message.

I used slightly fatter than factory lower o-rings + some kind of hard rubber for bigger manifold o-rings, I don't know how to properly call this part. Installation is somewhat messy, but there is no vacuum/boost leak, so it all works for me. I'm currently using factory injectors, so I didn't use any spacer for a rail.

As for pics, I'll try to arrange that in a week.

Edited by Legionnaire

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...