Project Vixen33 - Highway Unit

[drift_dingo]

C. has little to no idea what I am doing

I thought that was a given, ya think I'm annoying ya all for sport? And I won't say 'no' idea, just not a very clear one.

[N1GTR]

nah KAI, SPL are 1000ps... Plus I'll probably get a PPG gearset later on anyways...

yesh I'm one of those people who A. loves HKS things and B. the intake noise from a KAI.

You wont have a choice once your stock box sees that amount of power it's on borrowed time.

Wishlists and dreams aside; you need way more than 20k.

[dorifticon]

I think a reliable 400kw install can be had for $20k fairly easily, even as low as $15k if you're selling off your old parts. My only hesitation is whether the rb25 gearset is significantly weaker than the 5-speed in the r32 26.

Of course this assumes you are prepared to wait sometimes for bargains, only spend money where it's needed, and do 95% of the stuff yourself.

Buying parts from abandoned projects is a great way to save yourself some $$, for example I bought a complete head with my desired valve train setup for a little over a couple grand, whereas buying the components and having a shop set it all up would have run me easily more than $5k. Just an example.

Best thing is to sit down and price out everything you need down to the dollar.

Also think outside the box - for example running an rb26 head would get you a big side entry plenum and twin turbo configuration for a lot cheaper than simply throwing out cash for store-bought bolt-on stuff for the rb25 head. Sure you lose VCT but you gain ITB's. IMO it would be cheaper to modify OEM cast iron manifolds and run twin turbos capable of supporting 400kw than to just buy a 6boost manifold and a big single. Anyway something to think about at least.

Unless you are thinking of paying someone else to do it all, in which case I have no idea what it could cost.

You wont have a choice once your stock box sees that amount of power it's on borrowed time.

Wishlists and dreams aside; you need way more than 20k.

Edited January 12, 2011 by dorifticon

[R31Nismoid]

T51, E85, you are talking about 500rwkw+ setup here.

If its 400rwkw then that's much cheaper, easier and perhaps only partly unrealistic.

i mean first off the car is RWD on the street, and let's be realistic here, that's a limiting factor there. 400rwkw is going to be unusable.

Even at 150km/h you are going to turn tyres on boost.Any RWD car will do that.

and let's be even more realistic, this isn't germany and we don't have autobarns. I can't even think of a road here in Victoria that would let you do 300km/h without throwing you off the road.

I think you need to sit back and look at this properly, rather than a friday day dream.

A 300-350rwkw RWD car will be faster than a 400+ on the street for one simple reson. Traction.

[dorifticon]

I suppose if the car was too powerful in a rear drive setup, it's always possible to turn down the boost for the street, or have a dual setting (one for dyno comps, one for driving).

If money is a hard limiting factor, my advice would be to build up the bottom end capable of supporting your dream power target, and get the best cylinder head you can afford. (I spent $11k on my bottom end, which included some pricey nitto rods, a nitto oil pump, CP pistons, and a bunch of stuff you won't need like sump adapter and bellhousing machining/redrilling).

That way, once the long motor is in, if you run out of cash for whatever reason you can at least bolt on your ancilliaries and have a driving car until you can save up more $$ for the rest of the gear, rather than having an unfinished project sitting in your shed frustrating you which ulimately ends up in a parts sellof.

Don't worry if you don't have a clear idea, I had no idea whatsoever when I started out, only what I had read here, and even that info didn't cover all the problems I had. You won't know what the problems are til you start and by then it will be too late to turn back, so best just to jump in.