Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.meguiarsd...tail/MEG+G12310

This has been discussed before but thought I'd give it another plug. This stuff is the shizznit. It really works and converted my cloudy dull lenses to new. Sorry didn't take before and after pics.

p.s. mask the bodywork around the lense, it states on the bottle to avoid contact with paintwork

Edited by mosoto
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349367-cloudy-headlight-lenses/
Share on other sites

http://www.meguiarsd...tail/MEG+G12310

This has been discussed before but thougfht I'd give it another plug. This stuff is the shizznit. It really works and converted my cloudy dull lenses to new. Sorry didn't take before and after pics.

Looks like it's good stuff, Mark. Can we buy that at pretty much any car places in WA?

auto barn sells this shit! its the good stuff!

for people that are tinting the tail lights. advice is to get a good dark tint sprayed, after 24 hours cut and polish.. after thats done finish it up with this folish in the link.. comes up almost like the paint on your car.. no cop attention either as it looks ADR painted ;)

This was just before i did the last touch up of the plastic polish, n you can imagine what it comes up like.. i should post a later pic

post-77654-0-11686200-1294281970_thumb.jpg

auto barn sells this shit! its the good stuff!

for people that are tinting the tail lights. advice is to get a good dark tint sprayed, after 24 hours cut and polish.. after thats done finish it up with this folish in the link.. comes up almost like the paint on your car.. no cop attention either as it looks ADR painted ;)

This was just before i did the last touch up of the plastic polish, n you can imagine what it comes up like.. i should post a later pic

post-77654-0-11686200-1294281970_thumb.jpg

Nice work, Aaron. Is that process reversible?

Nice work, Aaron. Is that process reversible?

yeh it should be with some non aggresive paint thinner. i managed to get most of it off the previous car and polishing it back to clear..

I guess we shall see if the time ever has to come :P

ooohh but this stuff wont work if your headlights are yellow from the inside.. sometimes Jap take the bulb out before they send it as they know Aus compliance has to put a new one in anyway.. and the "hole" left unclosed for the bulb tends to stay open and all the salt watery air gets in there while its being shipped.

thats what makes it go yuck lol

Edited by AaronNM35

i use plastx all the time. only thing is once ur lights start to cloud u need to clean it with plastx at least once every 3-4 months otherwise it will start to oxidise again, its not a permanent fix.

another tip for this is to clean them. take em to a panel beater. and ask them to clear coat! stays l;ike new, never oxidised, well from the outside/

paul had like a tinted film over his previous h/lights and they bubbled up under the heat

high temp clear coat may be the way to go. In fact it probably came with a protective coat from the factory which wears out over time....explains why it starts to cloud only after a couple of years.

http://www.fw1.com.au/

^^^ i use this stuff

Nightcrawler put me on to it when i bought some old mags off him

you need to keep applying it every few weeks to keep the lenses sparkly but is paintwork safe.

i even use it as a wax on my old bluey and will spray on wax off as opposed to washing it!

does chrome, bumpers - basically anything you can think of except glass - because it is a wax...

I have used this as well. Started of with Brite-Shine first to get the bulk of the crap off, then finished of with this. In the pic the drivers side has been done the passenger side hasn't.

it looks like you havnt got lenses on! good job!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For fuelling the Haltechs have O2WB fuel controllers. Very useful for helping tuning VE and correcting for *small* mistakes. Of course if your injector/cam/trigger/sensor data is just wrong (or for a GTT which is not a GT) then you will get impossible reactions to things. I am sure you know this already but the reason people don't typically put haltechs (or any Aftermarket ECU) on GT's is because there's practically no real gains to be had - So this knowledge won't be commonplace.
    • Can someone tell me if the cracks seen in the rear sway bar bushings in these photo's is unacceptable from a roadworthy point of view?  
    • Shouldn't need a "base map" for anything other than guidance to ignition tuning. You just need the engine capacity right, the injector size right, and something, almost anything, for a VE map. On an NA engine, fuelling is almost completely a function of load signal & rpm. It should run and drive with a completely flat fuel map. It will be too lean under load, but that's easily fixed. We used to tune all ECUs without any base map. There were no such things (until someone had tuned a near stock engine on one, and then they had a "base map".
    • What did you actually buy/how much did it cost? When I got mine in like.. 2017...? 2019? the aim was to run Torque for gauges via ODB2 and things like Track Addict/Laptimers/Dashcam/Reversecam/Spotify etc. Mine never broke, but I wonder if you've got the same needs (it sounds like it). Cause I liked the idea of being able to do anything with it. That said, yours also cost 3x the cost of what I spent so... food for thought.  
    • For me there is a massive difference in manufacturer or big brand crippled android (Sony, Kenwood etc) vs the sort of thing I've installed here, which is basically just a tablet in DIN form factor with open Android, and the other model of course is mirroring - Android Auto/Carplay. I hate the locked down manufacturer and AA options where they decide what apps I'm allowed to install, including the Launcher but also importantly things like Ecutek (for this car) or Real Dash (Stagea) are not supported. Plus those crippled versions tend to be slower due to both overheads and lower spec hardware. On the other hand, when this breaks I'll likely be in trouble for support....but how is that different to owning an Infiniti anyway
×
×
  • Create New...