Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All, I am looking for a pair of these secondhand in excellent condition and any info regarding how hard it is to fit them to a Series 1 33GTR,ballasts etc,please ring me or pm me as I don't want to get into a bidding frenzy on the forum, Cheers GREYPEARL 0417032732

Edited by Robert Knight
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349926-series-3-gtr-projector-headlights/
Share on other sites

All you have to do is trim the tabs off the side of your headlight plug and they will bolt straight up to your series one.

Cheers,

Johno

Hi Johno,Thanks for the reply ,what about the ballasts, are they already in a series 1 or not,are there any other changes to make??Cheers GREYPEARL.

no probs mate, the ballasts are part of the xenon s3 headlights.. they should be bolted to the bottom.. no other changes are needed.

Thanks Johno, I was just worried about the extra load on the wiring having the more powerful current draw,now I've just got to find some good ones,what are my chances do you think??

Not sure of the price for second hand ones but if you are wondering what a pair goes for brand new expect to pay $3700 from Nissan or $3300 from Kudos Motorsports.

Not sure of the price for second hand ones but if you are wondering what a pair goes for brand new expect to pay $3700 from Nissan or $3300 from Kudos Motorsports.

Thanks for the info mate,GREYPEARL.

no probs mate, the ballasts are part of the xenon s3 headlights.. they should be bolted to the bottom.. no other changes are needed.

Hey Johno,I just read in a thread about xenons that the series 3 lights don't have a bracket that attaches to the grill like the series1 do,is this right as another poster told me all that's different is the connector tab which you just trim off??Cheers GREYPEARL.

Hey Johno,I just read in a thread about xenons that the series 3 lights don't have a bracket that attaches to the grill like the series1 do,is this right as another poster told me all that's different is the connector tab which you just trim off??Cheers GREYPEARL.

Anyone know the answer to this??GREYPEARL.

Series III will fit series I and series II but series I won't fit series III because of the said bracket. Your series one dont have the bracket for the grill. As said above you just cut the plastic bit and you fit on to your series I. Balasts are with the lights, bolted under them. Don't worry about extra load on your wirring, you will have less because they are only 35 Watt, your Hals should be 55 w.

Your biggest proble is finding a set , not many series III cars around and all series I and II owners want them that means very expensive!!!

If you found a set in Japan it will cost you up to $2000 by the time you brought them here.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • With stone chips, you really can't just try to fill them. You really have to sand that spot to lower the edges of the chip, so that the filler will end up covering a wider patch than just the chip. Otherwise, you're trying to have a sharp edged paint surface match up to some filler, and they just do not sand the same and you always end up with a noticable transition. A bunch of adjacent chips should be well sanded back, to round off all those edges, and use a lot (in a relative sense) of filler to raise the whole area back.
    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
×
×
  • Create New...