Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

100% untrue, they have the same AWD system, if you ran ATTESSA full time on the GTS-4, the transfer case gear oil would boil and the transfer case's clutch pack would be farked in no time.

Yeah, there are no part time $WD skylines in production. However I have heard of a front drive disconnect?

It sounds unfeasable, however I would be VERY interested to know more! Anyone else heard this?

Yeah, there are no part time $WD skylines in production. However I have heard of a front drive disconnect?

It sounds unfeasable, however I would be VERY interested to know more! Anyone else heard this?

All 4WD Stageas and Skylines are like a part time AWD..

R32 GTS4/GTR runs 100% torque to the rear until it needs to feed torque to the front, up to 50% split (also feeds torque to the front under braking).

R33 onwards run a 5% split to the front then more when needed.

With R32's, you can just pull the fuse to make it RWD.

R33 onwards you need to either drop the front prop shaft or pull the bleed plug and hit the brake pedal 5 times after you start the car.

  • 2 weeks later...

Wow... That's a handy piece of knowledge. Thanks heaps.

Only wanted to find out cos I wanna build a fun bit of gear... AWD for track and street, but 2WD for ... ahem. fun?

get a R32GTR or GTS4 then, i run a torque split controller which lets me adjust how quickly (sensitivity) the front wheels engage when needed,

and also has a switch to turn off the attessa pump which means RWD for drifting

Wow... That's a handy piece of knowledge. Thanks heaps.

Only wanted to find out cos I wanna build a fun bit of gear... AWD for track and street, but 2WD for ... ahem. fun?

+1 all this is yours with a torque split controller.

I have just installed a TSC torque split controller last weekend, easy as pie. Just follow the instructions.

All i need to know is from the people that have used these units for sometime - what is the best setting to have the dial placed at for drivability, and having the dial set to 10 - does this stuff your front transfer case up?

Adam

Transfer will be fine

I change mine depending on driving. If its wet its up pretty high , freeway driving i turn it right down cause i notice the front torque kicks in too easily.

normal dry driving i like having the setting around 5 ish. Feels nocer accellerating out of a corner

Transfer will be fine

I change mine depending on driving. If its wet its up pretty high , freeway driving i turn it right down cause i notice the front torque kicks in too easily.

normal dry driving i like having the setting around 5 ish. Feels nocer accellerating out of a corner

Cheers for that!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Try looking at Eibacb/H&R springs Thats what Gary sourced for mine.
    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
×
×
  • Create New...