Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

Im looking to replace my bumper, as it has some damage to the driver side on it and was thinking i might just sell the gtr pods on it and replace the whole thing, but the only problem is i am having problem find anything remontly nice :P

i would like something to match my car nismo front bar and 400r side does anyone have any idea of a good 1?

Ok now onto the crazy ideas :D

1. r34 headlights onto a r33 is it possable and wat are peoples comments of how they would think they would look (tring to do a photochop but dont have any pics of r34 headlights) the reason this has come around is i need 2 replace of my headlights (damage) so i was thinkng i might do something different

2. My dad had this crazy idea and i was wondering if it would work, he said i wonder if u can hook the aircon up so it blows into the turbo, so some how connect the aircon to the intake pipe (where air filter is or make 2 pipes so still have air filter) and when turning on the aircon have coldair pump into it.

This idea has 1 major problem i think is that when the aircon is on the car seems to run alittle less quick and maybe the gain will just be as if it was running withou the aircon

any input would be helpful of all subjects :)

thanks Mike :headspin:

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

thanks for the photo prae :)

hmmm looking at the photo i am still not sure if it will work so good or even look so good confused :P

dan, i have no idea how the aircon works but i wonder if u could make a little aircon unit that has its own power supply and doesnt run off the engine and use that, my dad knows about those things so i will get him onto it when he gets back from work 2day.

Crazy ideas look wat happens when i dont go 2 school ahahaha :D

i had an idea back in the day when i was still wanting a v8 (hehehe how things have change) and i was thinking if adding a some vucum onto the intake pipes so that air is suck in faster therefore more air,

dont know if that would work again just another crazy idea

yeah dan_the_man is right, your turbo sucks a lot of air through the airfilters, an air conditioning unit wont even have close to enoguh power to make a differnce, i had the same idea when i was supercharging my bmw, also im not sure about this but the air that is coming out of the A/C unit isnt oxygen enriched like air from the atmostphere, which means even though its cold your engine be able to burn it as good as normal air, correct me if im wront.

If you use R34 lights you'll probably need to use R34 bonnett to match them ....then you'll probably need front bar to suit R34. I've just gone that route putting R33series 2 lights on my series 1. Series 1 bonnet and front bar no longer lined up properly

ok r34 lights r the go ahead :(

but only problem is i need a kit maybe someone could help me out, maybe rezz can come in and help me out

just get a bodykit instead of the stock R34 one if its better (eg: do luck, nimso etc)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...