Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There's a slight difference with the VCT but I'm pretty sure it doesn't have anything to do with the head. I know the bottom ends are the same so was just covering my bases and not saying the top end is the same lol.

Neo engines are different top end

ok now another question

i'm looking at doing an rb30 block "rb25/30det" anything i need to know? i'm going to be using my original rb25det for the parts so what machining will need to be done? & will i have to change my exhaust as the 30 block in abit longer then the 25 block...

thanx

I would stress that you think long and hard before undertaking a project like an RB25/30. It could end up costing alot in parts and labour (if not doing it yourself)

If your goals arent terribly high then consider just getting an RB26 :) but your car so you do what you want to do. I was just advising lol

thats some really use full info in that thanx heaps guys i seriously wouldn't of found that much info in 1 spot :)

anyways i've sourced an already built rb30 block (acl race bearings, genuine nissan piston ring kit throu out, arp con rod bolts, balanced & cyro crank, chemically cleaned block. all seals & gaskets, modified oil pump & drilled tapped block for extra pulley)

i'm guessing this would be the best way to go, what are your thoughts? all info would be great :)

converting from a 25 to a 26 costs a lot more than 25 to 25/30.

spot on.

once you get the little fiddly things out of the way its much easier and much cheaper. especially if you break something you're spending $50 on a new block and you're set.

if you've sourced a block thats already built i'd definitely be looking into getting it re-checked as well as throw in some new bearings and rings as well as have a look at the oil feeds are the right size, that way you've basically got a brand new one.

spot on.

once you get the little fiddly things out of the way its much easier and much cheaper. especially if you break something you're spending $50 on a new block and you're set.

if you've sourced a block thats already built i'd definitely be looking into getting it re-checked as well as throw in some new bearings and rings as well as have a look at the oil feeds are the right size, that way you've basically got a brand new one.

ok sweet. in that info it says head needs to be modified but doesn't say what need modifying. do you know what they mean by that?

all the information is in that doc and in the rb30 build thread. you need to get an oil feed to the VCT if your head has VCT as the rb30 block doesnt have an oil galley that lines up with a VCT head. your best bet is to go into the rb30 build forums, read the main thread and then ask your questions if you're still having problems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
    • I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....
    • I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!
×
×
  • Create New...