Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys. Im planning on selling my current car which is a NA BA XR6. Because I'm stubborn I prefer to buy a car and modify it myself and I love having car projects.

I am currently thinking about buying an NA R33 GTS and Turbocharging it myself. What is the average power levels made from this kind of modification (I know there is a topic however it didn't give me a clear indication for R33 power levels) and can it be made to be a stealthy modification for example a stock R33 GTST intercooler and heatshielding over the turbo and manifold?

And I'm currently undecided on whether to buy a GTS or a GTS4.

Any opinions?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350470-na-to-turbo-project/
Share on other sites

I don't get it, why on earth would you not just buy a GTST?

There is A LOT of differences between a GTS and GTST other than just one having a turbo on it.

You need to do a lot more reading, all the information is there.

So buy a stock GTST and modify it...

Instead of buying a GTS and modifying it into a lesser model GTST.

It is like you turbocharging your BA because you would not be happy driving a XR6T knowing you didn't put the turbo on it yourself.

Seriously, doesn't make sense.

Actually Turbocharging my Falcon has been one of my considerations. Me and a mate turbocharged his Falcon Ute a couple of months back and got impressive results but I have always preferred Skylines more than a Falcon. Im also on my Ps now so that's also one of the reasons I no longer have a GTST and want to buy a Non-turbo Skyline. Long story

theres things your missing mate,

if you buy an n/a skyline, it will have the n/a brakes and it will be 4 stud. if you want to make it easy to find a nice set of wheels you need to convert to 5 stud and if turboing i suggest better brakes aswell.

if you get a gts4 and you ever want to drop a motor in the only one that will work will be out of a stagea or GTR, unless your prepared to loose 4wd or mix and match blocks and sumps.

interms of power. if you get all the factory gtst stuff and put it in the gts, this will include:

injectors, afm, ecu, dump pipe, intake piping and bov, factory intercooler, turbo, dump pipe, manifold, oil lines and water lines, gaskets, plus things I may have forgotten.

funny enough, add this all together and you get what a gtst does... about 150rwkw...

if, like in a gtst, you get a exhaust, a bleed valve for abit more boost, and a fmic you will get similar power ~180-200rwkw... so its really the same, the only reason blokes on here turbocharge their cars is because they already have the n/a skyline. you don't, stick the n/a xr6 until your off your p's, then get a gtst if you want and mod that.

Im telling you it will save you thousands in the long run.

  • Like 1

if you buy an n/a skyline, it will have the n/a brakes and it will be 4 stud. if you want to make it easy to find a nice set of wheels you need to convert to 5 stud and if turboing i suggest better brakes aswell.

That's not neccesarily true, my NA 33 has 5 stud wheels and the decent Sumitomo brakes front and rear.

That's not neccesarily true, my NA 33 has 5 stud wheels and the decent Sumitomo brakes front and rear.

Because it was changed because someone wanted a brake upgrade and 5 stud conversion before you got it.

Because it was changed because someone wanted a brake upgrade and 5 stud conversion before you got it.

No it's completely stock. Auto, No ABS, No Hicas, S2 with 5 stud & decent brakes.

Why would someone bother to upgrade the brakes and hubs on what is essentially a JDM salesreps car without doing anything else?

Edited by miguelegant

Getting a bit of topic.

The main point is people only turbocharge a GTS when they have already owned it and don't want to sell it for personal reasons or whatever. That I can understand.

If you don't own one though, to go out and buy a GTS with the plan to turbocharge it, when for the exact same money you can already buy a GTST is just silly.

It is like going out and buying a VE V6 Commodore with the intention of putting a LS2 into it instead of some one offering you a VE SS for the same money. Really, why would you?

Than on top of all that, you legally can't even drive the turbocharged car, so why go down that path? No insurance, constantly looking over your shoulder for every single cop so you don't get done etc. It just really isn't worth it.

theres things your missing mate,

if you buy an n/a skyline, it will have the n/a brakes and it will be 4 stud. if you want to make it easy to find a nice set of wheels you need to convert to 5 stud and if turboing i suggest better brakes aswell.

if you get a gts4 and you ever want to drop a motor in the only one that will work will be out of a stagea or GTR, unless your prepared to loose 4wd or mix and match blocks and sumps.

interms of power. if you get all the factory gtst stuff and put it in the gts, this will include:

injectors, afm, ecu, dump pipe, intake piping and bov, factory intercooler, turbo, dump pipe, manifold, oil lines and water lines, gaskets, plus things I may have forgotten.

funny enough, add this all together and you get what a gtst does... about 150rwkw...

if, like in a gtst, you get a exhaust, a bleed valve for abit more boost, and a fmic you will get similar power ~180-200rwkw... so its really the same, the only reason blokes on here turbocharge their cars is because they already have the n/a skyline. you don't, stick the n/a xr6 until your off your p's, then get a gtst if you want and mod that.

Im telling you it will save you thousands in the long run.

don't forget that the GTS-t has a stronger gearbox, factory LSD, and the key factor, will cost less to buy.

put simply, for the money it costs to buy a natro and turbo it you could buy a turbo one, build it up and be making a hell of a lot more power.

Dude i just picked up a 95 gtst with 130k for 4k, Sure its paint isnt great but otherwise its mechanically great. I think you would be stupid not to get a gtst with deals like that going around. I have already done heaps of fiddling and modding which gives you that satisfaction you were talking about, which i completely understand. The gtst is already a really great base man, and if you are decent with spanners you can do heaps of bolt on mods and get the f**kers cracking 300rwkw+ cheap as hell. Seriously reconsider..

yes, its definetly possible to make it stealthy. eg; you can have a black fmic, ces racing exhaust which looks almost exactly like the standard one, an air diversion plate to cover up the intercooler from the top. stock airbox and heatshield to cover up the pipings and turbo (no pods as it makes too much noise). but really, all those stealthy mods does not guarantee you not getting done by cops, ofcouse there are always cops out there that doesnt know what they are looking for lol. but once you get pulled over by highway patrol, i say thats yet lol.

i think i pm you few days ago, i say would be great to discuss it throught that if you wanna to.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...