Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

just replaced my o2 sensors but from what ive read, i think something maybe wrong. o2-1 reads a .8 to .9v at idle. o2-2 sits on .06v. ive given it a bit of a rev and they both move but i would think they should be the same voltage.?? i used the rb25 (NTK OZA395-E2) *2 with plug modification

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350894-o2-voltages-in-gtr/
Share on other sites

hey guys

just replaced my o2 sensors but from what ive read, i think something maybe wrong. o2-1 reads a .8 to .9v at idle. o2-2 sits on .06v. ive given it a bit of a rev and they both move but i would think they should be the same voltage.?? i used the rb25 (NTK OZA395-E2) *2 with plug modification

GTR's trim the front 3 and the rear 3 cylinders independantly so they will neverread the same while in closed loop.

I'm not sure if I would trust either's voltage output, when fully warming up at idle you should see 0.4-0.6v.. but if they are indeed working then the first 3 cylinders are running rich (assuming o2-1 is the front sensor), while the last 3 are running lean

They will only really trim once its hot and on cruise. Try bringing the revs up to 2500rpm hot and see what you get - if one goes lean and the other rich - then you have most likely wired them around the wrong way (the best check is to watch the fuel trims as you will see one go to full positive trim(25%) and the other to full negative trim(25%)). ie front 02 signal in the rear dump and rear 02 sensor in the front dump.

just give it a rev to 2500. 02-1 sits on .9 to 1 v. o2-1 sits on .08 to .09.

checked the wiring, long plug goes to back, square plug goes to front (can someone confirm this please)

wires are in correct positions(same color wires go to heaters and same to signal wire across to plugs)

where do i see the fuel trims?? had a look in the screen for o2's and couldnt see them there

just went through my pfc screens and it turns out the o2 f/b control was turned off. there is another one, 02 sensor reg. does this need to be turned on too? must be a gtr thing cause i cant find it in any manuals

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
×
×
  • Create New...