Jump to content
SAU Community

Stripping Doors

fake400r

By fake400r,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

Darkside Community Regular

Darkside

Posted
Posted

I did some stripped doors (evo) for track stuff here in WA and if you can get to them, you basically drill out the spot welds and then give em a bit of a bash and they come out. But to be honest they dont weight very much . (4kg at most in an evo)

For the tarmac rally car, as has Snowy, I left them in. I hope I never need em, but am happy to lug them around just in case. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351192-stripping-doors/#findComment-5635568
Share on other sites
fake400r Community Regular

fake400r

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thought id let you all know what the results were.

The original doors complete were about 36kg. I have gutted them right out to a point where the door still should have good strength. I have managed to get them down to 15.2kg each without glass. The window weights just over 5kg. I am now going to get plastic windows made. Any idea what you reckon these should weigh?

Overall im pretty happy as this will be at least a 30-35kg saving for no cost oulay but for the windows and new mirrors. As a reference Sunline quote 3.5kg for their superlight carbon doors. These would be nice but just not practicle for the budget at this stage.

Anyway, if your thinking of gutting your GTR doors this is about the result you might expect.

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351192-stripping-doors/#findComment-5640835
Share on other sites
TwinTurboCelica Enthusiast

TwinTurboCelica

Posted
Posted (edited)

Thanks Matt.... so that was 36kg each? Looking to get Carbon Fibre Doors, and I was wondering the total weight saving..... Thanks!

Can you fit steel intrusion bars to the carbon doors?

Also, does anyone know what a standard r34 boot lid weighs?

Edited by TwinTurboCelica
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351192-stripping-doors/#findComment-5640850
Share on other sites
jazzy_j Community Regular

jazzy_j

Posted
Posted

So how did you remove the intrusion bars,,,I need to do my R33.

I was thinking of a small wheeled 180 degree angle grinder and or my dremmel using a million cutoff discs.

Cheers

Neil.

We used mini cutting discs in the die grinder to cut the intrusions out of the R32 doors. I think we went through two disks cutting them out.

Talk to Brad about it cause he did most of the work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351192-stripping-doors/#findComment-5641726
Share on other sites
Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted

Yeah I remember doing it well. GTiR is the same.

I used some small cut off wheels on my die grinder. I hve a shit load of them Neil. Can sacrifice a few next time I see you.

I also vote for the 9inch angle grinder which will go through the whole door skin nicely if not the whole door.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351192-stripping-doors/#findComment-5641881
Share on other sites
TwinTurboCelica Enthusiast

TwinTurboCelica

Posted
Posted

Kind of defeats the purpose...

There is a method to my madness. I don't want to fit a cage, but I think side intrusion bars are important for safety. Given you can get carbon fibre doors around 5kg, 4kg for intrusion bars, 5kgs for glass, 2kgs for add on trim... you could get a 36kg door down to 16kgs. Times by 2 doors, and you could save 40kgs. Well worth it IMHO.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351192-stripping-doors/#findComment-5642030
Share on other sites
fake400r Community Regular

fake400r

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So how did you remove the intrusion bars,,,I need to do my R33.

I was thinking of a small wheeled 180 degree angle grinder and or my dremmel using a million cutoff discs.

Cheers

Neil.

I used a 5" angle grinder to cut the bar in half. had to be very careful when cutting close to the door skin but there is a few mm grace. I then drilled out the spot welds (about 4 per end per bar) and then used a hammer and chisel to break them apart. Took me a while to do the first door whilst i worked it out but not long at all for the second one.

The side intrusion bars were about 4kg per door.

Cheers,

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351192-stripping-doors/#findComment-5644399
Share on other sites
fake400r Community Regular

fake400r

Posted
  • Author
Posted

+1 would not remove them unless you have a roll cage

I agree and this is a pure race car that has a very high end roll cage nearly completed in it. Otherwise i would leave them as is.

Also i cant see why anyone would bother stripping a car to this level if it was for the street. Would be a horrible noisy piece of junk to drive around in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351192-stripping-doors/#findComment-5644405
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...