Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 GTR PARTS....PLUS SHELL

power steering pump $50

twin blow of valves $150 THE PAIR

air compresser $50

alternator $50

air con condensor $100

clutch fan $50

condensor fan $50

brake booster $80

abs moduel $40

washer bottle $30

coolant bottle $30

steering rack $100

rear sway bar WITH NEW BUSHES $100

rear cradle with diff, driv shaftes and all arms....OFFER?

tail lights $80 PAIR

boot lid with gtr spoiler holes $50

parker lights $100 PAIR

front guards $300 PAIR...ONE HAS SLIGHT DENT

gtr printed rear shocks $100 PAIR

fuel tank plastic $60

COMPLETE BRAKES $500

DOORS WITH GLASS $100 EACH

MIRRORS $40 EACH

REAR WINDOW $100

REAR REO $50

QUATER GLASS...IF I CAN GET THEM OUT..$50 EACH

CLIMATE CONTROLL $50

CENTRE VENTS PERFICT $50

MINT CRASH PAD (DASH) $50

gearbox with shifter $500

3inch split dump pipe $70

radiator $100

door trims $50 EACH

rear seats $60

headlights (mint) PROJECTOR $250 PAIR

front reo (mint) un cut $100

r/h side side skirt $50

......I ONLY HAVE PARTS LISTED......

shell can be straight walk in regoed has alot of dents

IF SHELL DOSENT SELL AS A WHOLE ILL CUT IT AND SELL FRONT CUT OR WHAT EVER NEEDED...

LOCATED IN S.A WESTERN SUBURBS....TEXT OR PM ONLY 0415232397

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351245-wrecking-r32-gtr-and-shell/
Share on other sites

Can I have the following:

1) both back 1/4 window interior surrounds - only if good condition

2) drivers seatbelt

3) cabin temp sensor in bottom right of stereo surround

4) sunload sensor in corner of bottom left windscreen and top left of dash

Let me know prices

Cheers

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
×
×
  • Create New...