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One way up the road, i got up to 9 on the knock meter. then, when i turned around and came back, it didnt change from 9. Thats why i said it had 0 knock.

Before "elite racing" mentioned that the number displayed is actually the level of knock, not the amount of knocks, i never actually knew that. So, its possible that it knocked along the way home and didnt go above 9. I should have switched the motor off after one way, to then see what happened on the way back, but i never knew how the knock counter worked.

I will do more testing tomorrow and see some results, as i will need to refil after the trip home so i will use BP to see if that works to check that possibility. I have booked a tune in for monday afternoon so if it isnt a petrol issue than i will see what the tuner can do.

Thanks guys :)

As Jonno said - it's just the peak.

If you set it to real-time monitor you will see the bar constantly moving.

IT honestly sounds like you don't really understand the basics of the PFC & Hand Controller :(

Ill teach him on monday. Dont think he has had the car too long

+1

On the drive back home, i left it with -2 degrees timing and it was ok. Got to like 14 or so in the whole 4 hours driving. Put BP ultimate in as i got home, then went for a 10km run. No abnormal knocking, only about 9 or so on the meter, with no timing changes. Going for another run later tonight see how it goes then.

Might have been a bad batch of fuel

That why i recommended running a different brand in it just for a test.

We have ahd a bit of dodgy fuel lately with all the rain, some places worse than others.

If it was me, may as well just go get a touch up tune as you never know how good or bad the previous tune is.

Try and find someone who will tune with engine mics attached to the block etc instead of relying on the oem knock sensors that are 10+ years old. I think there's a two different camps regarding this and one is that the oem/factory knock sensors are useless past much factory output and have aged and will give alot of false readings. Guilt toy mentioned he experimented with relying on factory knock sensors via pfc then using a k-mon (knock detection device) and tuning using the k-mon gave an extra 30rwkw or something and a fatter mid range.

With the pfc utilising the factory knock sensors...i've been told/read anything over 60 is bad and under it is kinda ok. No setup using the pfc/factory knock sensors will ever register no knock (i.e. you will always see knock values in the safe range of 0-40 or so). I guess you have to decide for yourself whether you'd be happy with a tune using the factory knock sensors or that k-mon thing etc.

A thing to be aware of is after getting a touch up tune, make sure the tuner is willing to go on the road quickly to check their tune in real life as sometimes a dyno tune with no knock will knock on the road/real life conditions due to differences from being on a dyno and on the road. I had this issue but didn't want to do a road tune so a quick touch up was applied to the touch up tune lol and it still knocked...pretty gay..

In the end i changed to different fuels and used the pfc hand controller to find the offending load cells and adjust as necessary.. this was kinda painful as i didn't have the fc datalogit program and relied soley on the hand controller. What i did was set the controller to display two values being knock and rpm then soon as i saw abnormal knock, i would back off then inspect the rpm point and go into the ignition maps and adjust as necessary. Then reset the display values (right arrow button) and repeat this process until WOT gave no more abnormal knock readings. Remember you will need to know your WOT map trace pattern first to do this procedure.

yes the standard knock sensors and pfc arent perfect and a k-mon or similar is better but aslong as the knock sensors are working and and the pfc isnt displaying high numbers of knock then the car isnt knocking. the standard knock sensors pick up a lot of other noise and high numbers arent always knock but they will almost always pick up actual knock. the reason guilt toy was able to wind in more timing (and therefore make more power) with the k-mon is because the stock knock sensors were falsely reading high levels of knock, with the k-mon he was able to find the real safe limit. so the standard setup isnt ideal, but its fairly safe.

Exactly. The standard knock sensors are too sensitive. Therefor tuning with these might not net the extra kw but atleast there will be a larger safety margin.

I am roadtuning his car tonight so i will post up what i find. He also wants to up the boost from stock

Ok fitted a 3inch dump and front pipe. Still has 2.5inch catco cat.

Then went for a drive to check the tune, had a lean hole in the tune under WOT around peak torque which was causing an increase in the knock count. After richening up where needed the knock didnt go above 9, have

increased timing slightly under full throttle and still max knock was 14.

When Lachlan gets a 3 inch high flow cat i will recheck and youch up the mixtures.

His avcr wont respond to any changes to the boost level. Have tried initialising it. Learning on and off etc. Checked the install and looks ok. The solenoid is clicking when boosting as it should

If anyone has any input on thatplease sharr

His avcr wont respond to any changes to the boost level. Have tried initialising it. Learning on and off etc. Checked the install and looks ok. The solenoid is clicking when boosting as it should

If anyone has any input on thatplease sharr

Anyone know about this? Its frustrating me. It all seems connected fine, but wont change anything to do with my boost. Cranked it up to 16psi and still only does stock.

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