Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On my new 18's i got +38 offset front and back, but the front brakes just clear the rims, like 1-2 mm, so i would go +35 offset for the fronts B-man. I had no choice as they didnt have +35 offset for my rims.

Denham. what wheel widths do you have front/rear? and what tyre sizes?

Also... if +38 offset only just clears your brakes, and you're recommending b-man to get a LOWER offset - the space between the back of the wheel spokes to the wheel hub will be LESS with the lower offset!

dont you mean he should get a higher offset, say around 40-42 (for bigger brake clearance) ?

Also... if +38 offset only just clears your brakes, and you're recommending b-man to get a LOWER offset - the space between the back of the wheel spokes to the wheel hub will be LESS with the lower offset!

dont you mean he should get a higher offset, say around 40-42 (for bigger brake clearance) ?

No mate it works the opposite way, if you want the rims to stick out more away from brakes etc you go for lower offset, cause you minus the distance so going +32 offset means the wheels will stick out further so more clearance.

Thats why GTR's use +25 or less offset cause they have flared guards so the rims need to stick out more to fill the guards.

My rims are 8.5 inch front and 9.5 inch rear.

  • 3 weeks later...

With regard to a wheels clearing brake calipers, it has more to do with the shape of the wheel centre itself than offset.

Though of course a wheel with negative offset is more likely to be shaped away from the hub and brakes than one with a large positive offset.

  • 2 years later...

lower offset puts the rim further out giving you more clearance from coil overs allow more -ve camber etc.

but as mentioned above doesnt change distance from brakes that is to do with the spokes and hub, some manufactures have different disk types which refers to clearance from hub i think.

  • 6 years later...

so an 18 inch rim 9.5 to 10 inches wide with +15 offset should put the rims flush to the fenders if im correct then tire stretching would be needed and fender rolling to accommodate for turning and no rubbing issues?

so an 18 inch rim 9.5 to 10 inches wide with +15 offset should put the rims flush to the fenders if im correct then tire stretching would be needed and fender rolling to accommodate for turning and no rubbing issues?

Yes.

With regard to a wheels clearing brake calipers, it has more to do with the shape of the wheel centre itself than offset.

Though of course a wheel with negative offset is more likely to be shaped away from the hub and brakes than one with a large positive offset.

Unless the wheels have dish. As mentioned, it's all in the spoke design.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...