Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys looking at getting my timing belt changed gunna get a Nissan kit with waterpump idlers all that and just wondering if anyone can recommend a mechanic / workshop to do the work, Cheap / Reasonable. Been told its about a two hour job for a workshop? that sound right?

At very low revs pretty much 800 to 1100RPM motor sounds a little noisy kinf of a feint knock around the front, pretty sure it hasn't had a belt done and its at 130000ks so assuming its this, don't think its a lifter

Cheers Lee.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351363-rb25det-neo-timing-belt-replacement/
Share on other sites

Hi Lee D I Y ,save your self some money,Learn more about your car,

Put few BEERS & BBQ on & i bet your place with have a Crowd lol.

I guess the Other Stagea Owners will give you any help you need as many have done this before,

& most love to tinker,

i could probably help you out

my mate has done a few now and he reckons that he is pretty good at it

with that kit tho, check that it will fit a neo because we have a slightly different water pump

just checked tho and they have told someone that it will fit

shipping doesn't seem too bad either, looks like about $250 all up which is very good (looking at about $500 locally)

Yes Lee it is pretty simple to do. Only special tools needed are a 24mm socket and a puller to get the HB off.

There is a VERY GOOD DIY by Sydney kid. I have used it to do mine and a few Sils.

Perhaps a barbie day and some of us could come around.

They are using NSK bearings too, dont think thats OEM should be cheaper than Nissan? think ill grab the kit off ebay "seems" to all be Genuine Nissan, probably do it next weekend with a mate if Aus post rocks up, looks a lot easier than doing the SR20 chain too :)

Funny i'm in love with the Stag, have a Heavily modded 180 in the garage pretty much built it nut and bolt had it a few years and probably driven it 4000ks rarely drive it, tempted to flick it and mod the Stag instead I must be getting old hahaha practicality with performance is more appealing these days.

Cheers for the offers and advise boys

Here she is anyway, stock as a rock, 130000ks. Planing some small mods 18s or 19s, Apexi power intake, 3" Front pipe and high flow cat, wouldn't mind an exhaust but love how quiet these things are want the 3" performance and economy with minimal noise, basic turbo or highflow only because the stocker is squeeling on boost. That's it for now see how things go.

post-20372-0-09320800-1295771037_thumb.jpg

post-20372-0-82071200-1295771055_thumb.jpg

post-20372-0-38739800-1295771068_thumb.jpg

post-20372-0-01813500-1295771079_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...