Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

]Well got around to installing my catch can on the weekend and i went with this set up. Can any one tell me if this is correct way of doing it and if its working properly ? Any thoughts would be great. Car seams to be running fine but has a miis under boost but i think that due to plugs or coil packs cause just went on the dyno and had boost turned up . post-78172-0-11146500-1295788660_thumb.jpg

post-78172-0-04231900-1295788690_thumb.jpg

post-78172-0-31144800-1295788729_thumb.jpg

Yeah that's got the PCV catered for, but you can also run the valve cover breathers to it too.

It's prob better for the engine to vent it to air instead of back into the intake, but it's not very legal that way...

Pretty sure that won't work. You still have it set up so that oil and oil vapour can be sucked into the intake side of the turbo, particularly under boost (high load) conditions. And that is exactly when you don't want it to happen.

The PCV valve only opens under high vacuum (low load) and detonation from the oil vapour isn't a problem.

Pretty sure that won't work. You still have it set up so that oil and oil vapour can be sucked into the intake side of the turbo, particularly under boost (high load) conditions. And that is exactly when you don't want it to happen.

Yeah but then you have to vent it to atmo which is not legal.

How is that different to how hes done it, still has the PCV and plumbed into the intake?

edit: my bad I thought he had done it like you had, you are right that is the better way to do it. When on boost it sucks the gasses via the catch can, when on vac it sucks straight out the cam covers avoiding oil in the turbo.

His is the opposite, when on vac it sucks via the catch can, when on boost it sucks the oil straight out of the cam covers into the turbo.

Edited by Rolls

thought i might of f#!!ked it. So what u have done is plumbed the catch can between the cam cover and the pvc taking out that pipe all togeather? did u notice a difference? will hook it up ur way just means bigger pipe and larger barb ends on the catch can witch will be a bitch to find. Thanks for the pics mate.

No you don't!

Here's mine, stil complying with the requirement to have a fully sealed system not venting to atmosphere:

post-269-0-43814200-1295851834_thumb.jpg

post-269-0-26760300-1295851848_thumb.jpg

and you always run those hoses that close to the fan????

Thats better, you'll pass an epa/defect inspection with it set up like that as well.

I would have used black hose under the intake piping personally, but its functional at least.

Edited by Rolls

nup still to close for my liking, I especially like the black electrical tape holding it in its 'safe' position... come on really you couldnt find a safer place to have them or is that all the hose you could afford...

Thats better, you'll pass an epa/defect inspection with it set up like that as well.

I would have used black hose under the intake piping personally, but its functional at least.

yeah i know it stands out a bit just a quick install got to fly out for work tomorrow so got some hose and fittings on order for when i get home plus don't really like the brass fitings i used. It won't stand out so much then. thanks for the advice guys.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
    • Yeah the rule of thumb with an LS is 7psi per 1000rpm. That is decidedly not enough at 6800rpm. I mainly looked for the scenarios where knock started to be picked up and it was later in the session when things were hotter, and oil was thinner, and the pressure was lower than it should be. (i.e very horrible). I am hoping with thicker oil (I was running Penrite ten tenths 10-40, the manual specifies 10-30) that does not leak that it's much improved at that time!!! I am using Project Mu Club Racer CR pads. I'm also using the Project Mu 335C fluid. The symptoms imply that it was fluid that boiled, but no bubbles seemed pretty weird to me when I bled it today. I want to try Castrol SRF as it has a much higher wet temp but, well, I have new Project Mu fluid lol... so I should at least use that. The pedal on track was really noticable. It went from basically normal feeling to instantly near-floor. The car did pull up as before, it was just very much nearly at the floor before the brakes engaged. At that point I pretty much decided the day was very done, it did *kinda* come back during that very slow cooldown lap into the pits. Felt perfectly fine driving home.
    • f**king around with the bro
×
×
  • Create New...