Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, been a while since I've posted, but I'm still lurking about.

Ive been keeping an eye out, browsing classifieds etc, but still haven't decided to buy anything.

I have however noticed huge discrepancies in pricing on what seem like fairly similar cars, particularly with V-Specs. Prices are all over the place.

Here's two examples, one has a few mods, but the other, the cheaper one is more original.

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=9521132&ref=Item&__Ns=pCar_LastModifiedDate_DateTime|1&__N=1216%201246%201247%201252%201282&tsrc=allcarhome&__Nne=15

This one looks cleaner, but is $10K less? Surely the one above isn't 10K better?

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=8802208&ref=RecentItem&__Ns=pCar_LastModifiedDate_DateTime|1&__N=1216%201246%201247%201252%201282&tsrc=allcarhome&__Nne=15

These are just two examples, I've found a number, the same goes for r33's but not really looking for one of those...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351475-r32-gtr-v-spec-prices/
Share on other sites

Easily repainted?

Don't like clear corner indicators though...

Lol, theres a place in Perth that import GTRs. On every one of them the paint is mint.

Its such a stupid thing to be putt off by. Anyone can paint them. Hell, my old car had a bit of paint coming off it, yet it was a fresh engine - some people don't care.

Fair enough, I realise it's easy to hide... I'm just being super picky

Lol, theres a place in Perth that import GTRs. On every one of them the paint is mint.

Its such a stupid thing to be putt off by. Anyone can paint them. Hell, my old car had a bit of paint coming off it, yet it was a fresh engine - some people don't care.

That second R32 Vspec you linked is mine. I do have import paperwork with the ks that are on it. Its a very honest and tidy car. Im a bit surprised it hasnt sold, I wouldnt if I didnt have my eye on something else.

Paint on the plenum can be a guide, but the reality is that if its been pressure washed at all in the engine bay the paint is the first to go. Wouldnt be that hard to touch up, if your that way inclined. Look for signs of overspray, if its all fesh looking and black, cause its very unlikely to have been removed to be painted, unless the engine is out.

Looks good mate, and well priced by comparison to others around. Its a buyers market right now, supply outweighs demand. Good luck with it.

That second R32 Vspec you linked is mine. I do have import paperwork with the ks that are on it. Its a very honest and tidy car. Im a bit surprised it hasnt sold, I wouldnt if I didnt have my eye on something else.

Paint on the plenum can be a guide, but the reality is that if its been pressure washed at all in the engine bay the paint is the first to go. Wouldnt be that hard to touch up, if your that way inclined. Look for signs of overspray, if its all fesh looking and black, cause its very unlikely to have been removed to be painted, unless the engine is out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...