Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gt Coupe Build

notavailable
 Share

Recommended Posts

notavailable Rookie

notavailable

Posted
Posted

I just picked up a GT Coupe NON turbo for $5500, I know a bargain, well it was my cousin who sold it to me. The engine is in "pretty good" condition, it's not exactly immaculate. it runs but there are several oil leaks and it needs a ring change as per the mechanics saying. I'm thinking about putting an RB26 in. What would it take? I know I have to guy the engine but after that, do I have to do modifications to the chassis or just bolt in. How do I hook it up to the drive shaft. I know I'm a noob but if I'm doing a swap then why not the RB. By the way what about the RTA, do I have to notify them or something. Is this even legal to do. Do I have to get the car reinspected by blue slip. What about cops won't they ask why it's a RB26 not the stock engine, even if I tell the RTA? Please guys the engine in this thing is ****ed up, it runs but my mechanic said change it, the cracks in the sump are too expensive and not worth it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351707-r34-gt-coupe-build/
Share on other sites
StealthX Veteran

StealthX

Posted
Posted

Prepare yourself for alot of money and a fair bit of headfarking.

RB26 in good condition: $4,000 - $4,500.

Custom sump (without diff): $500

Installation labor: $1,000 - $1,200

Then prepare yourself for blown turbo town, most rb26's turbos are getting on, and it'd be a wise move for the sake fo your engine to swap to a single or get new -5s (GT2860) within the next 6 months.

You'll have to notify the RTA, I don't know about eastern states laws, but you'll def need an inspection of some sort. You wouldn't wanna risk it, You'd barely last a few weeks judging by the rate that skylines get hassled on the roads, and they'd take one peek in your engine bay and see that it's not stock...

Bronx Mentor

Bronx

Posted
Posted

+ electronics, ecu etc??? i needed all those parts when i did my conversion. also exhaust would needa be redone, dont know if you still need to modify your brakes either if you put a higher performance engine into your car, the non turbo brakes are so small you can barely stop a horse with them.....

engineers report or certificate???

also are you still allowed to put an older motor in a newer car??? somewhere i read about that, or was that just for compliance??

syfon Veteran

syfon

Posted
Posted

a copper aint going to look your vehicle record and see that it is a non-turbo, or and RB26 bla bla bla.

They will seach your plates and see "Nissan Skyline", nothing else. A police officer is not going to be able to tell that your car is a factory non-turbo just by looking at the vehicle record, nor will they be able to tell the difference between and RB26 and an RB25 non-turbo, expect for the few police officer's who may have some mechanical knowledge....

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

don't forget a turbo gearbox (unless the r34 natro boxes are stronger than the r33 natro boxes), brake upgrade (if needed), LSD.

yes you need to notify the transport department. you may possibly need it blue plated.

to be honest, for what it will cost you to do it you could sell the natro, buy a turbo 34 and do mods to it and be making more power than a stock 26.

notavailable Rookie

notavailable

Posted
  • Author
Posted

That's not the point, a built Civic might too but I loath civics lol. The point is the RB26 has more potential and is bigger. I mean why bother with an RB25. The 26 STOCK is BETTER. It's just the way it is. Now I could build a RWD GT-R here, yeh its not going to be a GTR but I never said it was. It's an RB26 Skyline RWD. I'll even put the GTR body kit and fenders to give it that look.

Anyways so what should I do at first, ask the RTA or build the car then go. Is it the RTA or the transport department or are they the same which you're talking about. By the way when cops look they don't see a Skyline GTR they see skyline so he's going to harass me, naturally as he is a useless loser. But anyways be that as it may I don't want trouble. So what should I do first for those who have done. What did you guys do?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...