Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

L20det complete original running motor Exedy heavy clutch short nose box all in very good condition

only mod is a high flow r34 turbo stainless split dump and front pipe all in perfect condition.$1500

L28 280ZX Turbo motor Reco P90 head new TO4ETurbo Dump pipe to suit F54 block new 5puc button clutch

280ZX Turbo box, Wolf3D ecu wiring for R30$2500 complete drop in motors with clutches boxes etc etc.

Both in very good condition no faults.

No silly offers may separate bits if enough interest but price will differ from complete set ups.

Selling to fund a different Enging combo

Make offers will deliver for fuel & time depends how far and convenience.

0415 346 073

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351840-l28l20-turbo-motors/
Share on other sites

Very interesting old dude,

I am not currently in the market, but will be in the future.

"high flow r34 turbo stainless split dump and front pipe all in perfect condition"

Would you consider selling this as a package? (Trade in for stock L20et Turbo and dump plus cash?)

Estimated or if known RWHP of each engine and what car they were in?

The L20et is out of a HR30 gt RWHP not much factory 144 this has bigger injectors

bigger turbo and split dump pipe so probably a bit more.Good thing its all original

and in excellent running order also the ECU will go with it along with all the Factory

Turbo stuff.

The L28et came out of a 280zx so all factory turbo stuff except injectors turbo dump

ECU new clutch ass might even throw in the same side inlets front mount and piping

Clutch Turbo head have only done a few hrs work this also was in the HR30 after the L20

but like i said I'm going a total different way and what ever i get for it all will be

put to that.As to RWHP 250+ maybe not really interest in figures as there not big enough

to talk about but plenty more than the L20 and when it boosts it's fun.

Edited by old dude

I plan to, just wondering how difficult making pickup longer is and if there's anything else involved.

Edit: Can standard ecu still be plugged in or have pinouts been changed?

Hydraulic lifters or solid?

Edited by Socrates

How difficult was sump swap?

Was only a case of elongating the oil pickup and bolting on a front facing sump?

It's not a biggie. My car's oil pick up (originally from a 260z???) has been cut, pointed in the opposite direction, and welded again to suit an 280zx sourced L28 with a C210 sump.

I can confirm that you will need to modify your oil pick up, but don't expect a major hassle. Better news, your front facing sump bolts straight up to the L28 block. The biggest hassle you might face is deleting one of your 2 dipsticks (a sawn-off dipstick should do the trick).

Again, from my experience, 144HP odd at the rear is going to feel like you're in a rocket compared to standard C210 arrangement... as for 250 plus... that's actually an awesome number, being near on double the factory output, but possibly waaaay more poke than the original C210 drivetrain and brakes are going to cope with for long. Fun though!

its 144 HP at the Flywheel.

My auto L24e with microtech was 74kW and went harder than a mates stock 5 speed L20et.

as for pinouts, each engine and series and release year and even continent has a difference or 2.

The later the release date the better, well nearly. You could get stuck with the ECCS with Oxy sensor and Cat convertor... meaning emissions compliant.

its 144 HP at the Flywheel.

My auto L24e with microtech was 74kW and went harder than a mates stock 5 speed L20et.

That's interesting!

My factory spec L20et 5 speed Paul Newman with it's 144HP, pulls up Mount's Ouseley & Kiera coming north from Wollongong @ 90kph in 5th without a care in the world with 2 up.

My old 7MGE MX83 auto Cressida couldn't do that with just me on board, unless I held it in 3rd to stop it jumping up to 4th & back to 3rd all the time.

And when I took it up the mountains the other week, it kicked ass going up Lapstone Hill off the end of M4 at Emu Plains.

Anybody that knows these roads in NSW can vouch that it is no mean feat.

Cheers, D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...