Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

Care to share?

emailed old dude (Scott Martin) about the engine back in april.

He sent me photos and info on the engine. responses were quick.

Decided to buy the engine. I made payment. First the idiot sent me the wrong bank details.

I waited for the funds to bounce back then i resent them to the correct account.

Contact at this point became slower and slower.

He told me that he was going to either frieght the motor etc or drive it up.

Weeks went by then he told me the shipping company sent it to Western Australia by mistake. At this point i asked for a tracking number and company he used.

That request was ignored. After that he told me he was now going to drive it up. Weeks went by and told me he was driving it up on 28/5/11.

I waited at home all day expecting the engine, tried calling him all day/smsing to find out where he was, how much longer etc. He sends me a sms 5pm that day saying his trailer is f**ked, the engine is f**ked, give me your bank details im returning your money. Tried calling straight away and no answer.

Managed to get in contact the following monday. gave me some bs story about how the trailer unhooked while driving or a wheel flew off. Told me he was going to transfer the money that week.

Contact none existant. my calls/sms/emails all ignored. Get an email on the friday saying his friend made the payment on friday evening.

no contact at all. no money shows up all through the following week. sends me one email after saying oh thats wierd it was definately done im going to find out.

since then i havent been able to get in contact. sms/email/phone all ignored.

this guy is a flamin mongrel

There is more ........................................

He contacted me when I last went to Melbourne and wanted to buy the Jenesis Front & AdThree rear I have. Wanted me to take them to Melbourne with me & call him when I arrived. Well from 2 weeks before I left I heard nothing and therefore never took the parts down.

Cazz sold an DR30 front cut to him, never contacted, and couldn't be contacted as far as I last new.

Interesting fellow is this old dude ????????????????????????????????????????????????/

D

Odd that a L20ET and short gearbox, and a Wolf 3D w/wiring for a R30 should appear - yes, I know, not together - in the OP. Because that is what I had in my R30 when it was stolen last year. Car hasn't been found, so it must have been stolen for parts, and is now spread across 15 different cars.

The bits he is selling is originally from a modified 280zx turbo, which he bought the L28et engine/box/wolf 3d for $1500 last year, was on 'viczcar' forum.

L20et is from his HR30 4 door, bought of GT-R30 or whatever the callsign was on here.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...