Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All,

Been ages since I last posted on here, Always reading :)

As the topic title says, I'm chasing peoples suggestions and their rough pricing on insurance for R33's. I know theres a lot of insurance posts on here, i'm still reading through them. A lot seem to be quite old hence this post.

Now, I've had my 33 for about 5 years now. Its always been insured and over the years its got cheaper.. Finally after paying their exorbitant amounts when i was younger!, but this week the insurance company has decided to do the opposite with their 'yearly contract renewal'

Car Details:

1997 R33 GTS-T 5sp

Mag wheels / Lowered

Tint / Alarm & Immob

BOV

3" Exhaust

Always garaged in a full enclosed, locked up garage.

Car is lucky to be driven 2000kms a year

Me:

28 years old

Had my license since 17

No accidents and no claims.

Rating 1 60% NCB (Think its rating one? its the top one, whichever that is)

Clean driving history, not been refused or lost my license or anything like that

Only person who drives the car.

Original Details:

Insured for: $15,200

Full Comp Insurance

Monthly payment: $79.31 Year payment: $868.65

New Details:

Insured for: $12,160

Full Comp Insurance

Monthly payment: $85.28 Year Payment $1023.40

So basically they have reduced the value of my car by $3040 whilst increasing the premium by $154.75. Fun Fun..

So... I'm asking you, fellow skyline owners what you are paying (roughly) for your insurance, how much its insured for (with what mods) and who you are insuring it through?

Hopefully I dont get flamed for 'another insurance post' and hopefully if people post up their details, this might help other people too :)

Cheers

Adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352010-r33-skyline-insurance-pricing/
Share on other sites

Maybe because of the flood, the company lost lots of money so they are trying to get some back.

I'm guessing though. Mine went up last year as well after the hail storm in Melbourne.

But my agreed value is $22,000 though.. so I'm not sure

I could be wrong :D

shannons!

modified r33 gtst. im 30 with essentially a perfect driving history and do less than 5000km a year and it costs me about $550 a year i think.

as it has been said. shannons is more of an interview than a tick box application. sometimes they say yes outside the box, sometimes no when you are inside...

  • 2 weeks later...

I just moved here from NZ

27yr old

Clean driving record - no tickets in last 5 years, accidents, claims, theft, fire etc.. nothing..

Shannons wanted $2070 p/a for full insurance on a R33 GTS25T 5spd, some mods, valued at $11,000

Perhaps it is because I have not been in aussie long enough to build up a good rating, but all the NZ companies are owned by aussie ones anyway.

They kept telling me that young kids like me kept writing off skylines. I told them the kiddies write of all types of cars, they just buy more skylines because they are cheap and good cars.

Hardly consider myself to be a 'young kid' at 27, but whatever ><

Justcars was significantly cheaper, and even cheaper again if it was insured under wifes name (who is younger). Go figure.

*Edit: That was also for apartment building style parking, 24hour concierge, CCTV video cover, not private lockup.

Edited by wrench_

Original Details:

Insured for: $15,200

New Details:

Insured for: $12,160

Cheers

Adam

What I'm pushing is a different angle.

And this is despite the fact that Just Car has now reduced its competition by taking over Shannons...

If you are peeved at one insurance company reducing your sum insured by an appreciable amount, you can change camps the following year by going to its competition (albeit limited).

The competitor will often (but not always) insure your car for the same amount as it was the year before. Then again, your premium may increase though.

The following year, you might switch back for the same or similar reasons.

On the last renewal of my wife's 530i, AAMI wanted to reduce her sum insured from $37500 to $29000. I called a competitor which insured the said car for $37500 still and the premium only went up by $2/wk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...