Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been doing a bit of reading about the different ways all the manufacturers implement their fancy valve actuation gear, and all the articles I've read seem to concentrate on either the Honda or Toyota implementations. Anyway what I want to know is does Nissan have an engine (preferably turbo'd) with the following features on both the inlet and exhaust cams:

* Continuously variable valve timing (by that I mean opening and closing point adjustment) - if so, how much can it adjust it?

* Control over the duration (most systems I saw only changed when the valves opened, the duration was locked) - if so, how much can it adjust it?

* Variable valve lift - I don't think any manufacturers have *continuously* variable implementations here, but if you know of one, I'd like to hear about it.

I think Toyota's VVTL-i (not VVT-i) does all the above and Honda's i-VTEC is close, but I just wanted to know if Nissan has an engine with it all.

While I'm asking questions, can someone tell me what is the difference between CVTC (Contiuously Variable Timing Control) and NVCS (Nissan Valve-timing Control System)? Both are Nissan systems.

Thanks,

Michael

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35210-nissans-version-of-toyotas-vvtl-i/
Share on other sites

the R34 GT-T's RB25 NEO has variable valve timing

not sure on exact details though

Yeah, it definitely does. So does the R33 with NVCS. I wonder what the NEO part brings to it though?

Just to add to my first post, I just found a page that described what Toyota's implementation does. It does everything I said above, except it doesn't have continously variable timing on the exhaust camshaft (although they have implemented it in testing - it just didn't help too much, so they left it out for cost reasons) and it can't continuously change the duration on either shaft (although it does change when it goes to the high lift cam profile). So essentially I'm not actually after a Nissan equivalent of this. I want better :D.

Who knows... I think it wouldn't be off much benefit on a turbo, most of the Variable Valve timing engines are NA, sothere is obviously a reason why not alot of turbo's use them (probably more to do with cost than anything else as im pretty sure porche have one??)

The later model SR20DET's used VVT, dont know to what capacity...

Probably not much help but im bored :D

The RB25DET uses a basic form of variable valve timing to help with top end and on boost.

The NEO engine uses a more refined version of that which i think why you notice that it gives more across the rev range and why it gives a little better power for each mod you do.

There is also a difference between the RB26DETT and RB25DET that the RB26DETT uses solid lifters that act directly on the valves. The RB25DET uses shims to work on the valves and is slightly less reliable at higher power levels. The SR20DET uses lifters where the cam lobes aren't directly pressing ontop of the valves. I think that is the low-down, anyhow its in the latest Speed mag :D

Honda VTEC actually has two different cams which it switches between at a certain power band to give a different torque level. Hence why they rev high and get most of their power up high.

I think the Xtrail (and probably others) is starting to use more of Nissans future engine technology using VVTi, and uses a more advanced form of valve timing than seen on the RB25DET NEO or any other Nissan.

The latest stuff they are moving towards is IVVT - which is infinitely variable valve timing, which means the valves themselves are individual actuators, and can be adjusted at any point by the ECU to suit the revs. I think thats how it works anyhow. That will give pretty tremendous levels of power and overall torque from even a relatively low capacity engine. If Honda can get 200kw+ (S2000) out of 2L, in future there are going to be some big power coming out of small capacity non-turbos. And in a way that is one of the reasons why the "fashion" of turbos has largely gone out at the end of the 90's by nissan and many others. Why add a turbo to get more power, if there are other, more efficient ways of doing it..

There are a whole heap of specifics and as usual I usually only take in the general gist - so some of this may be wrong. But that is what the net is for :D

NEO-VVL started in the SR, and as far as i know doesnt even exsist in any other block.

SR16VE, SR20VE were released into the Almera/Pulsar VZR hatchbacks in japan, to directly compete against the Civic Type R in production series. In fact the VZR N1 Pulsar features a SR16VE producing 200hp at the fly with a 6 speed box. Thats a normally aspirated short stroke SR block producing serious numbers!

As far as i am aware the only turbo engine that has been produced with the FULL NEO-VVL system into it is the SR20VET in the X-Trail GT (206kw).

Im not sure about the NEO RB26's but nissans designation for Variable Valve Timing and Lift is "V". If its still got the "D" in it, then its called NEO for some other reason (possibly a new timing only system? compared to the older RB25DET type?)

Its my understanding that all the motors that are designated "D" will only have variable valve TIMING on them only eg: SR20's RB25's.

All the NEO-VVL SR motors have it written on the rocker cover too, not just NEO but NEO-VVL.

Its been quite common in recent times in the US for guys to import the SR16VE and 20VE for Sentras.

Heres a link explaining NEO-VVL and the range of motors using it. Note, all of them are SR's

http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=18317

Heres a pic of Nissans "Super Pulsar" named later as the VZR-N1 and sold as a motorsport edition to race teams (200 horsies from a 1.6!).

Thanks for the info guys. I've had a look at the V engines before and they certainly sound good. Does anyone actually have any info on them though apart from just saying that they can control lift as well as timing? ie any specifics? From what I've read the VQxx in the V35 has some different cam stuff going on too, but it hasn't got the V in the name - so I guess it doesn't touch the lift. It might just be more refined implementation of the NEO engines.

red17 - Now that's a Pulsar :D I really like the SR20VET in the X-Trail too.

predator - so maybe the NEO engines can actually control the duration rather than just the timing?

Now about getting rid of turbos for tricky valve actuation - why not have both? I love turbos for the fat torque curve they give and the easy of modification. I also love an efficient engine and smart valve actuation is a good way of boosting efficiency. Isn't the big problem with the S2000 the fact that it's got no torque? I mean it's a great engine, but just imagine how good it would be if it was boosted.

http://autozine.kyul.net/technical_school/...ngine/vvt_1.htm

Not sure if it helps but theres not much info available on NEO-VVL... its mentioned on the second page of that article.

hehe that's the article I was reading that got me interested in this whole thing. It explains it really well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...