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hey guys im just wondering if i can compare power outputs for rb20det's with std cams etc but with things like a turbo,cooler,ecu,exhaust etc.... but im keen to see what ppl have done for good increases and what they have done that has not been so beneficial.....

to get things moving i have a completely internally std rb20det with a ~500hp roller bearing turbo(int gate), microtech lt12 plug in ecu ,3 inch mandrel bent zorst with 1 muffler and no cat,hybrid 600x300x76 cooler,gtr n1 injectors and malipassi reg... they are the major mods and it has around 300rwhp on 1 bar of boost on a hot day...... its not a hell fast car at the moment but its enough to have fun.... the car is still very driveable off boost and has 1 bar boost by 3500rpm or so....

keen to see others outputs please be realistic with hp and boost ratings cause im using this as a tool to compare eachothers mods to help other ppl make decisions on what mods to under take if they wanna persue hp.....

cheers guys Jon :flamed:

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i've got an rb20det, internally stock, stock injectors and AFM, SAFC, HKS 2530, Greddy 600x300x65 fmic, Grex oil cooler, 3" single dump and front, 3" hi-flow cat, 3.5" Apexi N1 catback, GTR fuel pump, rising rate fuel reg. Should be together and running this week and from all the research i've done i should make 300rwhp @ 1.2bar.

Hey Dude, i have a int stard rb20 with a crappy truck cooler, vg30 hi flow turbo, mines remap ecu, gtr fuel pump, pod full 3 inch and profec a boost controller on about 1.2 bar ive done a 12.6 at around 113-116 mph . The most ive gotten on a dyno is is 290, that hit a phantom cut at around 6500 witht he line still going up, so i recon i got around 300 rwhp.

Hope this helps.

Btw i have no broken ring lands :D

Hi WhiteR32, we use a ball bearing hi flowed RB25DET turbo on our old RB20DET for a consistent 220 rwkw (295 rwhp or 370 bhp) at 1.3 bar. This turbo and its support systems holds more than 1 bar of boost from 4,000 rpm to 8,000 rpm, so it is never off boost on gear changes. We have found this is the most airflow (max power) we can get and keep the rpm range useable. We have a few more mods than you have listed, split dump, 3.5 inch exhaust, no cat (it's a race car), GTR cams, Z32 fuel pump, adjustable pulleys, Power FC with boost controller, POD filter, heat shield and a substantial ambient air feed. The intercooler is a standard R32 GTR one with my design of pipework. The exhaust manifold was a copy of the R31 GTRS Group A manifold which has the turbo mounted low and rear for better weight distribution. As usual GCG did the hi flow. Oh and the engine is standard internally, 170,000 k's and never had the head off.

I have tried filling it up with Elf LMS, advancing the timing, up the boost to 1.4 bar and it made another 32 rwkw (252 rwkw) consistently. On one particularly cold morning last winter we hit 260 rwkw, but I haven't been able to duplicate it since.

Hope that helps

Hi, Mr GTS, forget the GTR plenum idea, it doesn't fit (different bolt patterns) and tests have confimrmed that you actually loose power. The runners and plenum volume are all wrong for 2 litres as they are deigned for 2.6 litres.

As for RB26 cams they fit RB20's, there is some benefit from adj pulleys as well. They do work beter if you also use the RB26 solid lifters to replace the RB20 Hydraulics. As for power increase, I have never done a bac kto back, but around 10 to 15 rwkw looks reasonable. That's max power increase but I think the average power increase would be more, maybe 20 to 25 rwkw.

Hope that helps

  • 3 weeks later...

Sydneykid or anyone that can shed some light, can you tell me if the GTR cams and solid lifters can be installed on an RB20 without removing the head...if not then i may just get some aftermarket cams and cam gears and stick with the hydraulic lifters.

Oh and if std GTR cams fir, then im assuming 264 9.1mm lift aftermarket GTR cams will aslo fit???

Hi Roy, GTR cams fit with the RB20 hydraulic followers. The hydraulic followers are supplied with oil from a galley in the head via a hole to the follower. We weld up the holes, remachine the bores and lower the amount of oil supplied to the head by blocking off one of the oil supply holes from the block to the head. This is all done with the head off. I don't think you could do it with the head on.

But I don't think you need to change to solids anyway. The bottom end rpm limit is more of an issue than the hydraulic follower rpm limit.

The idea of using standard GTR cams is to get a noticeable benefit for not much cost in parts or labour. If you are going to the expense of aftermarket cams then buy hydraulic ones. Or remove the head and do the hydraulic to solid swap properly then you can use cheaper, used GTR cams. I think you will find the cost works out the same ie; the labour cost = the cheaper cost of used GTR cams.

Hope that helps

So i suppose the next question is what cams have been seen to work well in an RB20, ive seen plenty of Jap cars run 264 cams but im not sure what lift. Are they the middle ground cams for streetability / performance increase on an RB20?

Im running std internals, with a 8,400rpm rev limit with a TD06-20G that is making power between 4,500rpm and the rev limit. Ideally looking for something that gives a little more mid range then top end...

Rb20 turbo

Standard internals

Microtech LTX8

FMIC

Full custom turbo back 3 inch exhaust with tanbae muffler and split wastegate

Pod

Running on 10psi, sitting on about 150rwkw

Getting rebuild soon :) .... but putting forgies in :) and will get spare rb25 turbo hi flowed , so ill see what happens .

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