Jump to content
SAU Community

Are My Brakes Shonky!?

Rydeit
 Share

Recommended Posts

FineLine Grand Master

FineLine

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone just bought an R-33 GT-R V-Spec Series 3 (1997). I just realised i have slotted brembos at the front and at the back standard nissan disks with nissan pads and non slotted rottors. Should i be worried?

Appreciate the help cheers.

No, Ran that combo for quite a while with no probs at all.

If you are going to track it I would reccomend a better pad and some decent brake fluid.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

hang on, do you mean your rear calipers are nissan branded? or is it just the rotors? rotor brand is not really important and slotted vs non slotted again not so important. nissan pads probably fine in the rear. it's quite common to see people upgrade front pads but not rears. post some pics of what you mean it may help sort this out.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

ok, yes that is not right.

being an R33 GTR you should have brembo calipers front AND rear. someone along the line has taken/sold your nice rear brembo calipers and replaced them with cheap GTR/GTST sumitomo (nissan branded) calipers.

you're fronts look fine and there is nothing wrong with having slotted rotors front but not rear, but sadly you don't have the right model rear brakes on your car and rear brembo calipers and rotors are hard to get for R33 GTR. this is because many 33 and 34 GTR owners upgrade their front brakes but not the rears so not many rear sets are in circulation and those that are usually get snapped up by 32 GTR owners who have fitted front 33 GTR brembos and want matching rears.

Luckily there is not a huge difference between the rear 'nissan' brake set-up and the rear brembo set-up so it should not be causing any severe brake balance problems for you but it's definitely not right. if you bought this car from a dealer I'd be going down there and asking them to fit the proper brakes for the car. having 'downgraded' brakes on a car may actually be illegal.

nice wheels though. one of my favourites. :) I've had them on both my 32 and 33 GTR. :)

  • Like 1
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

you car is sadly lacking a few important Series 3 and v-spec features. for starters it's 100% not a v-spec. so it's missing attesa ETS pro, it's missing A-LSD (no loss in my eyes) and it's missing the v-spec suspension (which is a shame as it's good gear). you are also missing the series 3 front bumper and front lip which is one of the most obvious series 3 updates. do you have xenon lights or are they just halogens in the xenon housings? apart from all that you don't even have the STANDARD R33 GTR rear brakes, they have been downgraded to 33 GTST/32 GTR brakes which is a sign someone has been taking good bits off the car.

get it checked over thoroughly at a workshop and if you can I would try and get your money back. yes they are only small problems but go and price up how much it costs to buy a series 3 front bumper and lip ($$$$) or a set of rear brembos (also $$$), then price up stuff like series 3 xenon lights etc. it all adds up and mroe than that, the fact that these bits are missing is a sign that the car has been 'raided' for bits, or possibly in a decent accident. get a pro to look it over, but still my advice would be try and get the sale reversed and your money back, or at least some compensation for all the gear you are going to have to buy. not much point paying a premium for a "series 3, v-spec" if it has none of the v-spec parts and is missing key series 3 parts and even standard 33 GTR parts. might as well have bought a 1995 non-vspec and saved some money. at least it would have the rear brembos.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Was about to suggest it might not have been a V-Spec, but the previous owner has upgraded the fronts to Brembos.

Considering the majority of the braking is done at the front, I wouldn't be overly concerned about the setup you have.

Miguelone Grand Master

Miguelone

Posted
Posted

Was about to suggest it might not have been a V-Spec, but the previous owner has upgraded the fronts to Brembos.

Considering the majority of the braking is done at the front, I wouldn't be overly concerned about the setup you have.

All 33 GTR's have Brembos front and rear, just the 32's have Sumitomos.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Turbodoc
      Noobie Stagea owner..

      By Turbodoc · Posted

      Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...