Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i am about to book the car in to get one just wondering if anyone has one and can comment on how they like it dislike it? i know a lot come down to tuner but i am just tossing up between this and the autronic SM4 ??

RB26

Blitz 660R turbo

stock intercooler

exhaust

256 cams

looking for a nice streetable setup, hence i was looking at the wide band with the haltech if i go for that ?

I only trust the STD ecu and PFC when using the STD cas if you want a 1 deg sensitive control. On most setups I'll try using the cas but if I get too much timing scatter I go to a crank trigger setup. As for sm4 vs haltech there is no comparison the autronic has been a better system for years.

i dont like Haltech after finding out that the ecu doesn't deal with knock. And in my opinion knock is one major part of tuning. In my case i tune on my own. i dont like the idea that i have to buy a knock microphone now.

So go with Power fc mate better and easier to tune. D-jetro or L-jetro

hope i helped

Well you know the turbo setup as well trent :) would you say they are on par with each other? i just dont want to fork out and then a new ecu come out!!

HAHA its coming together hey? good to see! keep us updated :)

If you do decide on the PFC d-jet we have i will leave the tune in it to give you a starting point.

Thanks trent, yep trying to have it ready for power cruise :) I am not looking forward to pulling twins off though :P

Will the djet run twin maps as I want to change from 98 to e85 there isnt any 85 for 4 hours if I drive home so twin maps is a must :) this was why I was looking at haltech autronic, will the autronic run a wide band ? I assume so ?

Thanks trent, yep trying to have it ready for power cruise :) I am not looking forward to pulling twins off though :P

Will the djet run twin maps as I want to change from 98 to e85 there isnt any 85 for 4 hours if I drive home so twin maps is a must :) this was why I was looking at haltech autronic, will the autronic run a wide band ? I assume so ?

You cant really run dual maps with the djet - not without datalogit and a laptop. I know it may sound pretty crude but on some of the xr6t e85 tunes I've done remotely I just add 28% extra fuel and 6degree more timing - this is as long as I know the 98oct tune was correct and I will generally get within 1% of my desired fuelling. You could probably do the same with the djet by adding global corrections to the 98Oct tune.

The autronic will accept pretty much all narrow and wide band sensors available - apart from ford narrowband 3V. You can also autotune.

Does anyone know if Autronic have made any progress toward calibrating the sm4 knock control module for rb's? I was told they were doing the calibrations in March last year but no word since...

Edited by DCIEVE

i dont like Haltech after finding out that the ecu doesn't deal with knock. And in my opinion knock is one major part of tuning. In my case i tune on my own. i dont like the idea that i have to buy a knock microphone now.

So go with Power fc mate better and easier to tune. D-jetro or L-jetro

hope i helped

I'm pretty sure that P-FC's don't have any knock control either, well if you don't count flashing a light as knock control.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...