Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just had a POD installed on my 1996 GTS25T and now when i hit boost at about 4000-4500rpm it feels like you just slammed on the brakes then let them off and slammed ur foot on the accelerater. Its really violent. Is it possible that they have broken my afm because it didnt do this before they installed it? what other causes could there be. I have tried resetting my ecu but that didnt help.

only other mod is a 3" cat back.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35273-problem-after-pod-installation/
Share on other sites

the 4000-4500rpm is when the boost solenoid opens and goes to 7psi, from 5psi

not sure why you'd get the slamming feeling? Maybe take the pod off and check your AFM for damage? Or try a friends 33 afm and see that goes, maybe swap pod and afrm from another 33

sounds right jay! once the pod goes on and removes alot of restriction it will let the turbo spin easier! happened to me when my pod broke open! started pushing 16PSI in and boost cut came on hard, similar things to what you've described bobby^ turn the boost down!

man if I had $1 for everytime this "cut at 4000-5000rpm" question I answered, I'd be rich..

with your new induction and free flowing exhaust, you are getting a higher boost.

therefore, you get a miss.

fix = take out your spark plugs, re-gap them to 0.8mm and put them back in and go for a thrash.. you'll see redline without a hitch.

The reason you only get the flat spot from 4500 to 5000 is because you computer adds more fuel at this point to allow for the extra boost that your factory boost soliniod is adding. This flooding effect may now have been multiplied buy that fact that your air filter is flowing better. 4500-5000 is also the point in which the variable cam shaft kicks in which from my understanding will also allow a greater flow.

This prob is also caused by the ecu rev limiting but not the case for you if you have the stock boost controller. Ps, since you where mssing with the pod and stuff check to make sure that the hoses to the boost solinoid are on tight, if not then you are bleeding more boost then stock.

After changing the gaps in the plugs, make sure you re-set the ecu again as every time you are experiencing this flat spot your ecu could be retarding your timing which equals loss of power.

my 2 cents, hope this helps as I can remember how pi**ed off I got when I had ignition probs...

Hey ive got no pod on my 33, but ive got a front mount and full exhaust (stock boost), when i hit about 6800 or there abouts, it feels like it has hit the injector cut out, could this be a similar problem? maybe i should gap the plugs down aswell?

i have no boost control of any kind, factory gauge says 3.5psi :S

Hey there,

The factory gauge in the R33 doesn't read in PSI. I'm not sure what form it measures in as I don't have a Skyline. Possibly microbar or dyne/centimeter2??

The problem with my car was that mag and turbo had given me a shit pod filter. After spending 1.30hours in st hitech in new market, having changed the sparkplugs and ****ed around for ages they installed a apexi pod instead of the shit one that mag and turbo had put in, it was only 30$ more. The whole exercise cost me 420 including pod and sparkplugs (my old spark plugs were crap). Costly to say the least.

What we can learn:

-Mag and turbo are useless

-St Hitech kick ass

-Apexi duel funnel > all

at least mag and turbo gave me my money back after much persuasion.

What we can learn:

-Mag and turbo are useless

-St Hitech kick ass

-Apexi duel funnel > all

at least mag and turbo gave me my money back after much persuasion.

how about adding to the "What we can learn" list..

should have bought a $90 K&N panel filter to replace factory filter and have NO problems and better gain than what you have now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes I can see how that would put you off HFM, especially with the price of good quality brake fluid. From what I understand it as you say the BM50 is the standard BMC for a R32 GTR, I must admit I would like to go far a Genuine Nissan BM57, but lack of cash prevents that at present. With the price being so close between the genuine BM50 and BM57 a BM57 New it seems a better choice as you gain that 1/16 bore size with the BM57, I would be interested in how much difference you feel with the BM57 fitted. I am going to take SteveL's advice in the short term and see how much actually comes out of that proportioning valve vent and save up for the Genuine Nissan part. Thanks for clarifying the HFM failure
    • Thanks mate. I just got the post inspection 1/2 done from state roads when the starter motor packed up, either that or the car alarm system is having trouble.  OEM part number 23300-AA112.
    • Hi, I though I was coming to an end in finding a replacement starter motor for a rb25de neo. I came across a starter motor from Taarks and a message below stating: Direct fit. 11 Tooth count. All below part numbers have been superseded to 11 teeth. Can some body shed some light on going from 8 teeth to 11 teeth apart from 36-month / 25,000 km warranty for passenger vehicles to 12 Month Warranty. Compatible with the following Nissan part numbers: 23300-20P00 23300-20P01 23300-20P05 23300-20P10 23300-20P11 23300-AA111 23300-AA112 23300-AA300 23300-08U10 23300-08U11 23300-08U15  
    • Low battery? Maybe check capacity? I know first-hand, on BMWs if your battery drops below 80% capacity, it starts causing strange issues.
    • 8.5 +37 = should fit rear, but I think it'll hit on front. What you want is low 30s/high 20's front, mid 30's rear. That 17" screenshot you posted looks good, I'd run it on my R32 (but that's long dead now). For tyre sizes, my rule of thumb is: 8': 235, 9": 255. But that's just my opinion. Nismo sizes: 18x8.5+35/18x9.5+38 is a good starting point.
×
×
  • Create New...