Jump to content
SAU Community

Sputtering R32 Gtst

nm35is

By nm35is,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

nm35is Apprentice

nm35is

Posted
Posted

Hi all, new to the forums.

Bought a 90 R32 gtst recently. All was going fine, until I decided to give it a service.

After I bought the car, I gave it the once over. Changed spark plugs, fuel filter, fuel pump, engine oil n filter. Now, for some reason, especially under a bit of load, i get an inconsistent sputtering, as if its starving for fuel. The car has managed to stall because of this once, but mostly it'll just sputter for about 30 seconds, then it'll be fine until the next time it gets driven and it happens again.

Plz bare in mind, b4 it was serviced it ran fine. Car is standard appart from a cat back exhaust which i had fitted.

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352835-sputtering-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites
Truffles Community Regular

Truffles

Posted
Posted

Given that you changed the fuel pump and fuel filter, it sounds like the car might not be getting enough fuel under load. What pump did you change it to? and how much fuel have you had in the tank?

Also, give the AAC a clean up near the throttle body. Might not be the problem now, but it often gives similar symptoms when it's dirty.

nm35is Apprentice

nm35is

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Standard fuel pump. Car hasn't been touched, it's standard apart from a cat back. Aac been flushed with tb cleaner. After browsing the forums I'm starting to think it's the coil packs.

Until servicing the car, nothing looked like it been replaced. Spark plugs looked like originals from factory. I'm suspecting a hairline crack in the cp's.

Car ran sweet even if it looked like it hadn't been serviced. after servicing it the problem began. It was imported less than a year ago and it was sitting in a garage untouched for the best part of six months...

BOOZTJUNKEY Proficient

BOOZTJUNKEY

Posted
Posted

What are the plugs you put in it ?

What size gap also? If it's stock boost then gap plugs to 1.0mm

On standard coils when they start to arc out or drop spark you can see marks on the plastic looks like there burnt but its not obvious but noticeable if looking for it

If they are arcing out you can tape them or silicon them or gap the plugs down so your weak sparks not getting blown out

but it's still a cheap fix that will let you down eventually ...

Coil packs are killed buy heat and having the coilpack cover on can contribute also because there is no where for the heat to go

Also double check everything you touched ( like vacuum lines etc it only takes a Loose clamp split old hose for air to lean from witch could put the air flow meter out cause the engine isn't getting the air that the air flow meter says it is

Hope that helps mate

Truffles Community Regular

Truffles

Posted
Posted

Try regapping the 1.0 to 0.8mm and see if that fixes it. Could well be the coilpacks. Given that the car is 21 years old, the coilpacks will be on their way out and by changing the plugs you could have disrupted how they sat.

regardless, it's probably better to regap your plugs anyway. Hopefully it will solve the problem though.

nm35is Apprentice

nm35is

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just an update, checked over everything this morning. Coil packs looked fine etc. Checked all hoses n found that the breather hose ontop of the block had a good crack through it. Replaced it, n belted the car down the freeway without so much as 1 sputter.

I'm yet to believe that was the culprit. I will run it a bit more this arvo n see how it goes. Fingers crossed.

SKITTLES Experienced

SKITTLES

Posted
Posted

I have to same problem in my R33. I'll be watching this thread enthusiastically.

What fuel are you using? I was using a 98 with ethanol for 6 months before realizing it had ethanol in it... so I switched to v-power and it's not as bad.

It gets worst when the air cons on, and it drinks the fuel like crazy with the aircon on.

BOOZTJUNKEY Proficient

BOOZTJUNKEY

Posted
Posted

So far so good. Ran it most of the day up n down the mountains, not so much as 1 sputter. Looks like the cracked hose was the culprit..

Glad to help mate and it's a problem I had on my last 32 so I no the symptoms all to we'll happy motoring mate

nm35is Apprentice

nm35is

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Bout 78ks...I'll pull out the coils tomoz n clean em out the slap some silicone all over em n see how it goes. Was looking at replacing the coil packs this week..any premium recommendations? I've seen splitfires thrown around on the forum a bit? Price? I'll give the afm a clean 2..

Although, I can't explain for the life of me why yesturday in 42 degree heat running almost non stop no sputter, yet today in cooler weather it's acting like a camel running on empty..

BOOZTJUNKEY Proficient

BOOZTJUNKEY

Posted
Posted

I got a set of splitfires off eBay they were genuine ones also they were 600 posted to my Door which is good considering autobarn and shit places like that want a grand a set if you have the money go with spitfire worth the money but on my current 32 I cheaped out and got super sparks which can be a bit of lucky dip mine were ok but a mate bought some for his 180sx and they were f*ked straight out of the box you hear good and bad about them I'm pretty sure super sparks are about 500 to your door from eBay but there is a new company that make yellow jackets I think there called I don't no much bout them but there bout 400 to your door but I would check the feed back on them

Another option is u can get series 2 rb 20 coils supposed to be a bit stronger and last longer also series 1 rb25 coils work also hope that helps bro

Try taping or silicon them first or run ecu for errors And it should tell you where the miss is if it is coil or sensor related it should tell you which cylinder is miss firing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...