Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, new to the forums.

Bought a 90 R32 gtst recently. All was going fine, until I decided to give it a service.

After I bought the car, I gave it the once over. Changed spark plugs, fuel filter, fuel pump, engine oil n filter. Now, for some reason, especially under a bit of load, i get an inconsistent sputtering, as if its starving for fuel. The car has managed to stall because of this once, but mostly it'll just sputter for about 30 seconds, then it'll be fine until the next time it gets driven and it happens again.

Plz bare in mind, b4 it was serviced it ran fine. Car is standard appart from a cat back exhaust which i had fitted.

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352835-sputtering-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites

Given that you changed the fuel pump and fuel filter, it sounds like the car might not be getting enough fuel under load. What pump did you change it to? and how much fuel have you had in the tank?

Also, give the AAC a clean up near the throttle body. Might not be the problem now, but it often gives similar symptoms when it's dirty.

Standard fuel pump. Car hasn't been touched, it's standard apart from a cat back. Aac been flushed with tb cleaner. After browsing the forums I'm starting to think it's the coil packs.

Until servicing the car, nothing looked like it been replaced. Spark plugs looked like originals from factory. I'm suspecting a hairline crack in the cp's.

Car ran sweet even if it looked like it hadn't been serviced. after servicing it the problem began. It was imported less than a year ago and it was sitting in a garage untouched for the best part of six months...

What are the plugs you put in it ?

What size gap also? If it's stock boost then gap plugs to 1.0mm

On standard coils when they start to arc out or drop spark you can see marks on the plastic looks like there burnt but its not obvious but noticeable if looking for it

If they are arcing out you can tape them or silicon them or gap the plugs down so your weak sparks not getting blown out

but it's still a cheap fix that will let you down eventually ...

Coil packs are killed buy heat and having the coilpack cover on can contribute also because there is no where for the heat to go

Also double check everything you touched ( like vacuum lines etc it only takes a Loose clamp split old hose for air to lean from witch could put the air flow meter out cause the engine isn't getting the air that the air flow meter says it is

Hope that helps mate

Try regapping the 1.0 to 0.8mm and see if that fixes it. Could well be the coilpacks. Given that the car is 21 years old, the coilpacks will be on their way out and by changing the plugs you could have disrupted how they sat.

regardless, it's probably better to regap your plugs anyway. Hopefully it will solve the problem though.

Just an update, checked over everything this morning. Coil packs looked fine etc. Checked all hoses n found that the breather hose ontop of the block had a good crack through it. Replaced it, n belted the car down the freeway without so much as 1 sputter.

I'm yet to believe that was the culprit. I will run it a bit more this arvo n see how it goes. Fingers crossed.

I have to same problem in my R33. I'll be watching this thread enthusiastically.

What fuel are you using? I was using a 98 with ethanol for 6 months before realizing it had ethanol in it... so I switched to v-power and it's not as bad.

It gets worst when the air cons on, and it drinks the fuel like crazy with the aircon on.

So far so good. Ran it most of the day up n down the mountains, not so much as 1 sputter. Looks like the cracked hose was the culprit..

Glad to help mate and it's a problem I had on my last 32 so I no the symptoms all to we'll happy motoring mate

Bout 78ks...I'll pull out the coils tomoz n clean em out the slap some silicone all over em n see how it goes. Was looking at replacing the coil packs this week..any premium recommendations? I've seen splitfires thrown around on the forum a bit? Price? I'll give the afm a clean 2..

Although, I can't explain for the life of me why yesturday in 42 degree heat running almost non stop no sputter, yet today in cooler weather it's acting like a camel running on empty..

I got a set of splitfires off eBay they were genuine ones also they were 600 posted to my Door which is good considering autobarn and shit places like that want a grand a set if you have the money go with spitfire worth the money but on my current 32 I cheaped out and got super sparks which can be a bit of lucky dip mine were ok but a mate bought some for his 180sx and they were f*ked straight out of the box you hear good and bad about them I'm pretty sure super sparks are about 500 to your door from eBay but there is a new company that make yellow jackets I think there called I don't no much bout them but there bout 400 to your door but I would check the feed back on them

Another option is u can get series 2 rb 20 coils supposed to be a bit stronger and last longer also series 1 rb25 coils work also hope that helps bro

Try taping or silicon them first or run ecu for errors And it should tell you where the miss is if it is coil or sensor related it should tell you which cylinder is miss firing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...