Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Only low beam. Don't use a HID kit on a high beam unless you have your headlights rewired so the low beams stay on when you put your high beams on.

Otherwise you will have no lights for a few seconds when you switch from low beam to high beam.

Only low beam. Don't use a HID kit on a high beam unless you have your headlights rewired so the low beams stay on when you put your high beams on.

Otherwise you will have no lights for a few seconds when you switch from low beam to high beam.

and there is one more thing, do r33's use 35w or 55w?

and there is one more thing, do r33's use 35w or 55w?

Shouldn't really matter too much to be honest. Just 55w will be brighter and use more power.

Is there a specific reason you're going HID Xenon's?

As Kinks said, the reflectors aren't designed for HID's and can cause weird light spreads that can really disturb oncoming traffic and might get you some unwanted attention from the popo.

Light is more than just light and not all light is the same.

If it's colour you want, just get some 5000K halogens (That's 5000 Kelvins, a colour temperature) to get a really nice white coloured light that is almost touching blue in appearance. Phillips Diamond Vision bulbs will do the trick and it's a direct plug into the existing lights, too easy.

Im running hids in mine and have lowered them slightly dont get flashed or nething from any oncomming traffic also have them in the high and low with a relay anf switch set up like driving lights so wen i have the high beams on i dont loose the charge out of my low beams

I just put them in the low beams of mine, high beam is useless now cos the amount of light is reduced when I turn them on!

However as people said, they aren't designed for them and I get flashed a lot. Car isn't driven that often, so it doesn't bother me too much.

its h1 mate....what state/suburb are you from....i provide hids and install them with professional fitting(ballast hidden behind bumper so no cop trouble).......with 12 months warranty $150 .let me know ...0403673876

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...