Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Club lock... Best deterant in the world.. i didnt have anything on my car = stolen.. Now everywhere i go and even at home i have the clublock on, has never been touched in 4 years.. Park it all over the place, marion, TTP and at work in complete darkness and nothing.. GET A CLUBLOCK!! If you dont have one and your cars stolen, too bad in my books... They are not expensive! Theres a few ways of getting around a clublock but it takes a bit of time, so even if you do have one, dont leave your car for too long..

I agree. Get a club lock. I work in the northern suburbs and had never had my skyline broken into once.. touch wood :laugh:

had a bloke in a wrecking yard once show me how they can clublock off a car in about 15 secs i could not believe how simple it was

A quick google search gives you a few different options to remove it, all of which sound fast and effective. Ultimately, its just another level of deterrence - if someone wants the car and has the capabilities to bypass a multi-point immobiliser Im sure they'll be able to run a quick search on "How to remove a club lock"

  • Like 1

well now theives reading this thread know where to go to find out how to do it, good job :P but yeah, if they want your car that badly, they'll get it.. Much easier to find a GTR with an alarm and no clublock then it would be getting a clublock off a wheel... Well until they saw this thread..

Just need someone to explsin how to pass an immobilizer and this thread is pretty set! lol

well i could spill the beans for you but most of the people here wouldn't appreciate it... nissans are notoriously easy to de-immobilize if wired up normally, has nothing to do with where the immobiliser/alarm is actually hidden.

yeah i agree whilst none of the techniques are easily found with google we don't have to save thieves the effort of actually searching

i think if there pinching cars they already know what too do

i think if there pinching cars they already know what too do

Yeah if they want it more than you they'll find a way. Sad. I'm thinking about rigging up one of those telsa coils haha the only real deterrent!!

Here's a clublock that rules out a couple of the methods mentioned above...

14420.jpg

Its got the plate over the bar across the steering wheel

and requires more cutting of the steering wheel to get off or removal of the steering wheel altogether...

Takes more effort so is more of a deterrent than the el-crappola they sell at supercheap and autobarn.

Here's a clublock that rules out a couple of the methods mentioned above...

14420.jpg

Its got the plate over the bar across the steering wheel

and requires more cutting of the steering wheel to get off or removal of the steering wheel altogether...

Takes more effort so is more of a deterrent than the el-crappola they sell at supercheap and autobarn.

a cordless dewalt angle grinder would make short work of that lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...