Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Club lock... Best deterant in the world.. i didnt have anything on my car = stolen.. Now everywhere i go and even at home i have the clublock on, has never been touched in 4 years.. Park it all over the place, marion, TTP and at work in complete darkness and nothing.. GET A CLUBLOCK!! If you dont have one and your cars stolen, too bad in my books... They are not expensive! Theres a few ways of getting around a clublock but it takes a bit of time, so even if you do have one, dont leave your car for too long..

I agree. Get a club lock. I work in the northern suburbs and had never had my skyline broken into once.. touch wood :laugh:

had a bloke in a wrecking yard once show me how they can clublock off a car in about 15 secs i could not believe how simple it was

A quick google search gives you a few different options to remove it, all of which sound fast and effective. Ultimately, its just another level of deterrence - if someone wants the car and has the capabilities to bypass a multi-point immobiliser Im sure they'll be able to run a quick search on "How to remove a club lock"

  • Like 1

well now theives reading this thread know where to go to find out how to do it, good job :P but yeah, if they want your car that badly, they'll get it.. Much easier to find a GTR with an alarm and no clublock then it would be getting a clublock off a wheel... Well until they saw this thread..

Just need someone to explsin how to pass an immobilizer and this thread is pretty set! lol

well i could spill the beans for you but most of the people here wouldn't appreciate it... nissans are notoriously easy to de-immobilize if wired up normally, has nothing to do with where the immobiliser/alarm is actually hidden.

yeah i agree whilst none of the techniques are easily found with google we don't have to save thieves the effort of actually searching

i think if there pinching cars they already know what too do

i think if there pinching cars they already know what too do

Yeah if they want it more than you they'll find a way. Sad. I'm thinking about rigging up one of those telsa coils haha the only real deterrent!!

Here's a clublock that rules out a couple of the methods mentioned above...

14420.jpg

Its got the plate over the bar across the steering wheel

and requires more cutting of the steering wheel to get off or removal of the steering wheel altogether...

Takes more effort so is more of a deterrent than the el-crappola they sell at supercheap and autobarn.

Here's a clublock that rules out a couple of the methods mentioned above...

14420.jpg

Its got the plate over the bar across the steering wheel

and requires more cutting of the steering wheel to get off or removal of the steering wheel altogether...

Takes more effort so is more of a deterrent than the el-crappola they sell at supercheap and autobarn.

a cordless dewalt angle grinder would make short work of that lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...