Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Got another set of wheels for sale, taken off one of the cars I recently purchased.

They are quite rare in this size and cost a sh!tload brand new. Wheels are silver with polished lip.

Will post pics up tomorrow night but from memory 2 of the rims have slight gutter rash.

Tyres were quite worn will check tomorrow but I'm sure there was at least 50% tread left on them. Good for atleast a couple (if not more) track days.

They are 18x10 with a +20 offset, suitable for R33 and R34 GT-R's. May fit R32 GT-R's but will need some sort of guard mods (lipping) and some decent negative camber.

Located in Narre Warren North (VIC) but will ship interstate at buyer's expense.

PRICE: $3200 ono

Pics to come.....

Cheers,

Jack

OK, here are some pics.

12022011060.jpg

Pics of each individual wheel...

12022011061.jpg

12022011062.jpg

12022011063.jpg

12022011064.jpg

And some of the tyres...

12022011066.jpg

12022011071.jpg

As the pics above show there are a few marks on 2 of the rims, and the tyres have a bit of life still left in them....

PM or reply if interested, price is negotiable...

Cheers,

Jack

+1

These will fit in 32 GTR, maybe narrower tyres though.

Best of luck in sale Jack, I miss these.

+1

These will fit in 32 GTR, maybe narrower tyres though.

Best of luck in sale Jack, I miss these.

Yeah I'd say maybe a 245 or 265 wide tyre might do the trick.

oh geez.. jack, why do you always sell awesome rims that wont fit my evo? :(

Buy a GT-R!!! :P

Still for sale......

  • 2 weeks later...

^^ Nah, I bought a set of CR KAI 18x9.5 +20, had 245/40/18 all around, and it rubs badly. took it off after 8days and sold it for dirt cheap price lol.

Have you got coilovers in your evo? Bit of camber, shaving the rear bar and the bolts for the rear bar in the wheel arch and they fit, although a +20 i don't know if it would fit haha. Plenty of evo's running 18x 9.5 though. I'll be running 18 x 9 on mine

^^ yep, cusco zero 2R, -2ish camber, still not good.

didnt shave the rear bar and relocate the bolts though..

anyway sorry for hijacking your thread, Jack. wondering what's the next rims you'll put on for sale.. :)

Edited by gerz
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...